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#1 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Spring Hill, FL
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Things to replace with a timing belt job?
Ok, so my timing belt is going, and i've got a very low budget (about $130) to replace it and anything else i can. as long as i'm replacing the belt, is there anything else that i should replace? the motor has ~80-100k on it. I've heard to replace the idler/tensioner pulleys along with it.
Also, what's a good site to order all i need from? thanks in advance |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Same In The End
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Oceanside, CA / Reno, NV
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Idler/tensioner pulleys, water pump, cam and crank seals. Aaron at Lithia Toyota (a board sponsor) can get you great prices on Toyota parts.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Spring Hill, FL
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Thanks!
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#4 (permalink) |
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Project Dyno-Damage
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: A hidden village near Willow Springs Raceway
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So there is no need to mess with anything on the oil pump or its gear right? (if no leaks-or oil pressure issue)
Also, the idler/tensioner are 2 parts - a piston like thing and a pulley right? I am trying to gather the items to do a timing belt change on the new MR2 I got, its been a while and I don`t have a Toyota Technocraft down the street anymore. oh and I almost forgot, to reinstall the cyl-head, you would order the ARP `head` stud kit correct? not the main stud kit. Will do some work there as well... Thanks for any info. Last edited by SW20jiro; 08-15-2010 at 10:02 PM.. Reason: forgot to add more stuff=P |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Shut up&enjoy the ride
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Northern Cali.
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There are two different pulleys, the tensioner, which is a pulley and the tensioner itself +a spring, the other is just a pulley which i believe runs the oil-pump, the others are the crank pulley, water pump and cam gear. Id check the two pulleys, check out all the other moving parts around and stationary parts for damage, leaks or anything. Thermostat too since it'll be easily accesable. There will be two O-rings to replace, and a small gasket that need to be replaced just for you pulling the parts.
I have learned a valuable lesson with my rebuild if you're doing it, do it right the first time. And yes with the ARP kit. Im thinking youre working on a 5s, hopefully. Check your valve clearances, see what shape the cylinders are in and clean the pistons asmap, replace the head gasket of course studs need to be replaced every time they are removed, but some people have success not replacing them. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Still not heraldo.
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Pineapple under the sea
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id very strongly suggest not using head studs on a 5sfe. use TTY head bolts.
__________________
Science fact: If you took all the veins from your body and laid them end to end, you would die. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to TomsMR2 For This Useful Post: | ShackC (08-16-2010) |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Project Dyno-Damage
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: A hidden village near Willow Springs Raceway
Posts: 309
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tis a 3sgte with a blown Ct26. no 5sfe or whatever its called here. I reused my studs last time on my rev3 motor, but it only had like 90,000km. Plus no one in japan orders ARP studs, or anything else, unless your a pro-shop or somethin. too much tax.
however this rev2 motor is super old. and it needs all the loving it can get or i fear it will not cooperate with me down the road and blow another coolant hose or something worse! had a little too much rum tonight, The Expendables was a entertaining movie by the way! *hick* Should take the kids to go see it, RoR. |
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