5SFE: Nasty High Idle=(Please Help!

[lmp9002002]

Originally Posted by DZ91MR2

Also I thought I would add that my Gauges are still working but the light does not so im blind at night lol and my cruise control does not work just incase anything like that could be effecting anything else as well... or a side effect to some other problem..

Could be a bad connection or blown bulbs for the lights.
As for cruise control, i own a non-cruise car so can't really help ya there. lol. Check for any wires that may have been worn through or knocked loose recently (as in, around the time that these issues started happening)

[DZ91MR2]

Originally Posted by lmp9002002

Keep it in gear until it reaches idle. The motor helps to brake the car that way, so your brakes will last longer.
Your valve cover gasket leak is likely leaking oil onto the timing belt, which causes it to wear out much more quickly. So yes, a VC gasket change and a timing belt change would probably help your idle.

well these issues have been occuring way longer this just happened the other day my cluster light and as for cruise control I think that has never worked idk I never used it haha

Also about how much do you think it would cost to get the TB and VC Gasket changed?

[Kayo92MR2]

Originally Posted by DZ91MR2

well these issues have been occuring way longer this just happened the other day my cluster light and as for cruise control I think that has never worked idk I never used it haha

Also about how much do you think it would cost to get the TB and VC Gasket changed?

Well you could just buy the gaskets from your local auto parts store for pretty cheap or off of ebay, i think i found a genaric VC gasket for 9 bucks and the TB gasket would only be a few bucks. And to install both would only take about an hour, you just need a 12 or 14mm for the four TB bolts im not totally sure prolly the same for the VC bolts. Just make sure not to tighten them super tight because the TB is aluminum and you dont want to warp the VC

[DZ91MR2]

No im sorry for the confusion I dont need a gasket for the throttle body I need a Timing Belt.

[lmp9002002]

I've got an invoice right here.. i went to a local toyota shop and got the timing belt, cam seal, crank seal, oil pump seal and o-ring, idler and tensioner pulleys, water pump, thermostat, coolant changed and replaced with toyota coolant, 2 drive belts, valve cover gasket, distributor o-ring, distributor cap, and rotor all changed for $410 in parts. The labor was split up like this: $245 for timing belt and seals, 70 for water pump and thermostat, 70 for VC gasket and dist o-ring, and 0 for cap and rotor (i bought and replaced wires myself, cost me about $60 shipped from lithia toyota). Grand total came to around 885, but i had an extra $35 thrown on there because my compressor bolts were snapped off and had to be drilled out.
Honestly, if your car has 150k+ on it and this stuff has never been done, i HIGHLY recommend it. Car runs soooo much smoother, doesn't leak oil anymore, a lot more power, etc etc etc. Only took em about a day and a half to do too.

[lmp9002002]

Originally Posted by Kayo92MR2

Well you could just buy the gaskets from your local auto parts store for pretty cheap or off of ebay, i think i found a genaric VC gasket for 9 bucks and the TB gasket would only be a few bucks. And to install both would only take about an hour, you just need a 12 or 14mm for the four TB bolts im not totally sure prolly the same for the VC bolts. Just make sure not to tighten them super tight because the TB is aluminum and you dont want to warp the VC

Don't mean to flame you or anything, but that's terrible advice.
For one, get a proper VC gasket, so it won't leak. If you can do a VC gasket in an hour your first time, i applaud you, let alone doing another gasket in that time too. As for tightening, ALWAYS look in the BGB or whatever service manual you have for torque specs. NEVER just think "oh, that'll be tight enough" or "i'll just tighten it a little more..." some parts that you may think need to be torqued down to the max may only need about 10-12 ft-lbs. You can break a lot of ****, and waste a lot of time and money just for not looking for torque specs when you do a job.

tl;dr Honestly, i reccomend having a shop do it. MR2's are complicated and the engine needs to be partially dropped out to do a timing belt change, along with most other major work. if youre going to do a job like this yourself, use a service manual or the BGB. Not a paragraph of advice from someone on a forum. Trust me, you and your wallet will thank me...

[Kayo92MR2]

Well before he corrected me i assumed he was just doing the TB and VC. I have never taken off my VC on the 2 but all of my other cars i had the VC off in like 5 minutes its usually like 6 or 8 bolts. And for the TB i replaced mine and the gasket in about 15. I didnt mean to give some bunk advice and i realize alot of you guys have been working with 2's for alot longer but i am fairly car savy and do not believe in taking my cars to the shop to unless it is something that i cannot do myself. Plus its great experience

[lmp9002002]

Originally Posted by Kayo92MR2

Well before he corrected me i assumed he was just doing the TB and VC. I have never taken off my VC on the 2 but all of my other cars i had the VC off in like 5 minutes its usually like 6 or 8 bolts. And for the TB i replaced mine and the gasket in about 15. I didnt mean to give some bunk advice and i realize alot of you guys have been working with 2's for alot longer but i am fairly car savy and do not believe in taking my cars to the shop to unless it is something that i cannot do myself. Plus its great experience

There's plenty i can do myself, but i would prefer to take to a shop anyway, just because they have the proper tools and know EVERY little pointer. Little things, like how much torque is applied to the bolts can make a bigger difference than you think... And take a look in the BGB for the procedure for the VC gasket. I've looked into it, was considering doing it myself, but it's surely no 5 minute job. Not to mention pretty much any work on an mr2 is a pain without dropping the motor..

[Kayo92MR2]

Well i didnt mean to start an argument here..I was just trying to give some advice, not insist that he do the job specifically how I listed it...I am more than willing to change gaskets and belts on my own and not have a shop rape you with labor charges. Plus like i said trial and error is essential to learning anything new. And for those of us who are doing builds and dont want to again get charged "dealer prices" dont mind buying parts from the local auto parts store. Hell, i do and my cars have ran fine..

[lmp9002002]

Originally Posted by Kayo92MR2

Well i didnt mean to start an argument here..I was just trying to give some advice, not insist that he do the job specifically how I listed it...I am more than willing to change gaskets and belts on my own and not have a shop rape you with labor charges. Plus like i said trial and error is essential to learning anything new. And for those of us who are doing builds and dont want to again get charged "dealer prices" dont mind buying parts from the local auto parts store. Hell, i do and my cars have ran fine..

I don't have any problem doing my own work. Provided its something basic or something thats hard to mess up. But when it gets into things like the timing belt, front seal, etc.. I don't want to touch it. Especially not having a lift and any other tools needed..
For example, ive changed my own diff fluid and coolant and was reminded both times why people pay dealers. If i had a lift, something to collect the fluids in as they drained rather than them splashing all over, knowledge as to where the drains are from experience, the massive 24mm socket necessary to drain the diff, etc... it would be so much easier. But then again, those are jobs that are somewhat difficult to mess up (provided you know torque specs and how much fluid you need), so i did them myself.

Also, I'm not saying to go to a dealer. A dealer quoted me over $2k for what i paid $850 for at a local toyota specialist shop. Not to mention, i paid $410 for about 12 hours in labor- about $30 an hour. For the sake of the warranty and peace of mind when (if) something goes wrong, knowing its not my fault and is going to be fixed without any extra drain from your wallet, is well worth it to me.
To each his own, i guess.

[Kayo92MR2]

Originally Posted by lmp9002002

There's plenty i can do myself, but i would prefer to take to a shop anyway, just because they have the proper tools and know EVERY little pointer. Little things, like how much torque is applied to the bolts can make a bigger difference than you think... And take a look in the BGB for the procedure for the VC gasket. I've looked into it, was considering doing it myself, but it's surely no 5 minute job. Not to mention pretty much any work on an mr2 is a pain without dropping the motor..

So I wanted to powder coat my VC and i just wanted to let you know that all you need is a 12mm for the throttle bracket, and a 30mm for the VC nuts under the SP wires.....it took me about 10 minutes to remove the cover.
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[Dart]

Originally Posted by goddom

So far, no luck for me. I covered the TB while the car was running, and it didn't stall. So there must be an air leak somewhere in the TB or intake manifold. My primary suspect now is EGR valve since I can't see anything else that connects to the intake that might be leaking air. Also I am getting some low popping in the exhaust that may also be linked to the EGR.

Seems like this is exactly where I am at right now. I've checked as mush as I can think of plus while running covered the TB and it barely bogged my idle at all. I guess there must be one hell of a leak somewhere

[goddom]

Now buy yourself some carb cleaner, and while the engine is running and the TB is covered, spray the TB gasket, the intake manifold gasket, EGR gasket, and the the vacuum lines that go into the intake. If the engine bogs down, then you found a leak.

Here is a write up just posted on this forum.

Good luck!

[BaboSW20]

Uhmm.. Sorry to sound so noobish, but can anyone guide me or show me where the brake booster and vaccuum hose looks like and where? I don't want to assume a make things worst.. It'll be a great help! Thanks.

[Primera]

Originally Posted by BaboSW20

Uhmm.. Sorry to sound so noobish, but can anyone guide me or show me where the brake booster and vaccuum hose looks like and where? I don't want to assume a make things worst.. It'll be a great help! Thanks.

This is the vacuum hose coming off the intake manifold of the 5sfe for the brake booster. Its on the right side next to the cruise control

[BaboSW20]

Originally Posted by Primera

This is the vacuum hose coming off the intake manifold of the 5sfe for the brake booster. Its on the right side next to the cruise control

Thanks a bunch! Sweet Lotus :]. Elise?

[John_smith]

The Toyota Prius hybrid electric car is the top car i feel