5SFE: Another rebuild thread.

[ShackC]

The machinist is a long time family friend, and when i asked him about pricing for the valve job and resurfacing, he said 180, then said he would port it too, for no extra cost. Parts will cost more of course.

[ShackC]

Got a peep of the head, it looks really good. He is resurfacing tomorrow.

[ShackC]

sooo damn greasy.
Got everything else off, Need to disassemble block.
Ive stuck to the bgb all the way through, so whatever it says right?

[TomsMR2]

bearings on toyotas are a formula.. theres numbers stamped on a few places and you add them or something, its in the bgb.. basically you do the math and order the bearings by number. you do have to order them for your specific engine.

i used clevite bearings and swapped them around until i got them in spec with plastigage. that works too.

i wouldnt even bother measuring the crank, rods, journals etc.. its best to use plastigage. it does all the measurements all at once plus checks for taper. even if you do the formula thing to order bearings, its good to check with the plasticgage anyway.

[ShackC]

Thanks

[ShackC]

I got it all apart and marked today,
decided not to take measurements of old bearings (trash)
only cyl. #3 rod bearings had a couple little scratches other than that everything else looked great,
we did check thrust clearance, cant remember numbers right now but do remember close to lower end of spec.
gonna take the block to be tanked and tested tommorrow, then take some measurements of the cylinders when i get it back and go from there.

what you guys use for assy. lube? thread lock? bolt sealant? what ever tips you guys have for that stuff in assembly.

Waiting to buy gaskets and stuff to make sure i get all that i need.

[ShackC]

any of you guys had issues with bad valve lash causing low compression? It will.

[ShackC]

got the head and block back,
will have to remove the cams again before i put the head back on,
i have some work to do on the block, it is in good condition just needs to be honed and painted.
gaskets rings and bearings are up now, just need to make that purchase.

[ShackC]

got most of the honing done today, just a bit more there,
going to order gaskets and other parts, this next week, looking forward to my first completed MR2 project.

has any1 ever heard that black high temp. paints actually helps to relieve some of the engine heat? seems bogus to me but, uhh? Im thinking about red, with a lil satin black.

[TomsMR2]

the engine is water cooled, any further efforts to cool or heat it are nearly impossible. paint it WHITE if you're going to paint it any color. the contrast helps find leaks. i guess red is fine too.. lighter is better.

exedy clutches are as good as oem. i 100% trust them and have tons of miles and track hours on them.

assembly lube type and brand doesnt matter that much. DONT use lithium grease on your seals. it will dry up and cause leaks quickly.

only use the chemicals the bgb calls for in terms of thread locker and even anti-sieze. people get too excited with that stuff, only use it where the book calls for it.

[ShackC]

gotcha, really appreciate any tips i can get.

I figured that as to colors, didn't recon because of the water cooling but it makes alot of sense, Just trying to kill more birds with more like birdshot if you know what i mean. Want to do some dress up stuff along with this rebuild, hopefully the rebuild will last a while so i can fix my Kia, then start saving for a high quality 3sgte swap.

Definitely going exedy, and oem flywheel.

[ShackC]

got almost all of my parts.
got the oil ring end gap checked, good.
new pistons checked and installed to rods, also all good.
Spent an hour on it, forgot BGB at home like a dipsh!t so i didnt get too far theres always tomorrow,
I found some more cleaning i need to do anyways, bore brushing, scrubbing scrubbing, and everything else, its exciting to go back uphill finally.

Sorry this thread really seems like a journal or something oh well works for me.

[TomsMR2]

i use black FIPG for all bolts that call for sealant. done it for years, never had a problem!

people will end up reading your thread and being thankful someone documented it. its helpful. thanks!

[328FTW]

Originally Posted by TomsMR2

i use black FIPG for all bolts that call for sealant. done it for years, never had a problem!

people will end up reading your thread and being thankful someone documented it. its helpful. thanks!

^ What he said

I've been reading all your posts not that I need to I've done it a few times too many myself. I learnt a lot crawling the site initially and still do.

[ShackC]

Thank you guys, I have surely learned alot myself.
still doing some cleaning of internals before i put it all together.
I sprayed everything that should not show any sign of rust with a cheap spray lube for a preventative until assembly.

My timing belt kit didnt come with new pulleys, should they be replaced too?

[TomsMR2]

if they have any play, yes.

*usually* at 90k once the first timing belt is replaced, the pulleys are in pretty good shape. by 180k they usually have enough play to really not be reasonable to reuse.

[ShackC]

No noticeable play, but one sounds gritty, plus with 180k+ miles on them, I figure they need to be replaced.

[ShackC]

Nevermind this one.

[ShackC]

Okay,
So i got the block measure & assembled. I finished a few other things, and my little brother says that his U.T.I. teachers say that the bolts torqued down in a 2 step process(torquing then turning the bolts an additional 90') need to be replaced. The BGB doesn't mention it so should those bolts be replaced, I believe they're the connecting rod bolts, and main bearing cap bolts, and the head bolts. SO DO I NEED TO REPLACE THOSE OR WHAT?

[328FTW]

^Depends last I checked the OEM bolts were pretty cheap so I just replaced the last bottom end I did. Headbolts I get iffy with I've broken one off in the block before retorquing it down, that was not fun plus it was like $30 for a new set? (was for me anyway) I slapped myself for that but I've done a few motors without replacing since they are not stretch type but on the premise I don't want to be looking for a new motor after a rod bolt lets go or lifting the head for a broken bolt I go with new on a serious rebuild. I know others that have retorqued bolts and had them snap at 7k and fire a rod out the block on the other hand retorqued bolts myself and heard of others that do that and then go for 100k miles more really depends on price and whatnot.

And yeah you do get a ft-lb number and a +90 to torque to in fact my 3vzfe was 23ft-lb +90 +90 +90 or something retarded like that for the studs I ordered but whatever it torqued down nice anyway. Someone else may have a more firm opinion on things I kinda play things engine by engine depending on how lazy I am at the time