kill switch wiring for dummies

kbrew8991 · 11-03-2008, 11:07 PM

could someone please help me figure out how I should wire my kill switch for the race car? I've got a simple 2 post switch, and I think I know where I want to put it (pass side a-pillar bar) - but I've got no clue what wires need to go to it. By rule it must switch off ALL electrical activity when flipped, and they will check that when they do the inspection to issue the "logbook".

I am an electrical retard, so pictures, diagrams, offers to do it for me for a case or three of beer are all welcome

Many thanks!!

sdavis1090 · 11-04-2008, 08:51 AM

could you just run one side of the battery to that switch. breaking either the + or - there should kill the circuit?

muffinman · 11-04-2008, 09:41 AM

I found these online , maybe it will help you

Here's the site:installing a racecar kill switch

mr2tim · 11-04-2008, 11:36 AM

Hey, real nice Graphics there Mr Muffin plain an simple. Very Cool.

Of course, I'm a SCCA Corner Marshall (Read Un-paid volunteer) and look at this stuff way different than most Drivers but when I installed our kill switch I put it "outside" the car on the trim panel next to the engine cover on the drivers side.

That way when your car is on fire and the Workers drag you out the kill switch is right there where you and they are. Workers don't like to hunt around when things are on fire and they will go for the engine cover next, after rescuing you.

Putting the kill switch over top the battery seemed really logical too as I only had to run 1-2 feet of big heavy wires.

PS Make sure that fire extinguisher is easy to get to will ya?

kbrew8991 · 11-04-2008, 08:04 PM

it will be bright red and visible right through the window and if you miss the stickers directing you to it, well, you're probably not smart enough to find you way to the track either so I'll be covered there.

I just want to be able to roll the window up and have it out of the weather when stored. So far as I can tell, there is no reason I can't do that per the SCCA and NASA CCRs

Seen too many people have older switches that have been out in the weather start causing all kinds of random electrical issues, including suddenly cutting off all power though the switch was "on" during the middle of a championship race in one instance.

and it sounds like I've got the wrong &$%^ type of switch unless I can connect everything through just 2 posts... ugh

btw, former corner worker here

muffinman · 11-05-2008, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kbrew8991

and it sounds like I've got the wrong &$%^ type of switch unless I can connect everything through just 2 posts... ugh

Just bypass the battery positive with your switch , the only problem is that the car will not shut off which defeats the purpose.

kbrew8991 · 11-05-2008, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muffinman

Just bypass the battery positive with your switch , the only problem is that the car will not shut off which defeats the purpose.

yep, it has to shut the car of when flipped, and it will be checked when its inspected :-| just like I said in the first post

mr2tim · 11-10-2008, 08:38 PM

Former Corner Worker huh?

Not too many drivers with such great background credentials!!

328FTW · 11-11-2008, 05:36 AM

If it is not a double throw switch and only has a single pole that can kill the engine you could run the alternator through it to the battery side but make sure you put a 70amp fuse or so on it so if something does go wrong it pops the fuse instead of just setting the car on fire. Sometimes it is even mandatory to fuse the alternator charge wire in-line. I know that kills the engine.

Everett · 11-21-2008, 03:52 PM

So did you ever get around to installing the kill switch, Ken? I'm interested to see!

granracing · 12-04-2009, 09:01 AM

My advice – install the kill switch where it can easily be turned off while you’re tightly secured in your driver belts AND by corner workers.

Quite honestly, YOU will be more likely to turn the kill switch off than a corner worker. With the first car I built, I installed the kill switch on the hood of my car where it wasn’t accessible to me.

At one of the races, I ended up sliding off into one wall, bounced off and went into another wall in a place where I absolutely could not get out of the car safely. (At Lime Rock, just down the hill a bit perpendicular to on coming traffic. Nice, huh?) While I was perfectly fine physically, the car was smoking. Corner workers did not dare get on the track, and I couldn’t turn the kill switch. That incident caused me to build another car, one where I learned from all of my previous mistakes. The first thing I did was mount the kill switch onto the roll bar which I could reach, and a corner worker could readily see and is easily accessible via the driver’s window area. I have since needed to turn the kill switch off while out on the track a few times, and was sure glad it could be reached.

Another good reason for putting it in this location is it reduces the amount of exposure the kill switch has to the elements (rain and snow). Not a bad thing to help prevent it from failing when you need it most.

(I created the kill switch diagrams muffinman references.)

Dave Gran
http://www.GoAheadTakeTheWheel.com

kbrew8991 · 12-04-2009, 09:52 AM

welcome Dave

kbrew8991 · 12-04-2009, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Everett

So did you ever get around to installing the kill switch, Ken? I'm interested to see!

send me a PM or email bugging me for pics

11-03-2008, 11:07 PM	#1 (permalink)
kbrew8991 gimme some turns Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,685 Thanks: 76 Thanked 82 Times in 70 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	kill switch wiring for dummies could someone please help me figure out how I should wire my kill switch for the race car? I've got a simple 2 post switch, and I think I know where I want to put it (pass side a-pillar bar) - but I've got no clue what wires need to go to it. By rule it must switch off ALL electrical activity when flipped, and they will check that when they do the inspection to issue the "logbook". I am an electrical retard, so pictures, diagrams, offers to do it for me for a case or three of beer are all welcome Many thanks!!

11-04-2008, 08:04 PM	#5 (permalink)
kbrew8991 gimme some turns Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,685 Thanks: 76 Thanked 82 Times in 70 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	it will be bright red and visible right through the window and if you miss the stickers directing you to it, well, you're probably not smart enough to find you way to the track either so I'll be covered there. I just want to be able to roll the window up and have it out of the weather when stored. So far as I can tell, there is no reason I can't do that per the SCCA and NASA CCRs Seen too many people have older switches that have been out in the weather start causing all kinds of random electrical issues, including suddenly cutting off all power though the switch was "on" during the middle of a championship race in one instance. and it sounds like I've got the wrong &$%^ type of switch unless I can connect everything through just 2 posts... ugh btw, former corner worker here Last edited by kbrew8991; 11-04-2008 at 10:23 PM..

11-10-2008, 08:38 PM	#8 (permalink)
mr2tim SUPERcharZed ToyZ RacZer Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: South Florida Posts: 1,789 Thanks: 8 Thanked 118 Times in 111 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (6/100% )	Alternate switch location.. Former Corner Worker huh? Not too many drivers with such great background credentials!! Attached Thumbnails

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11-04-2008, 08:51 AM	#2 (permalink)
sdavis1090 Resident Photoshop-er Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Central Indiana Posts: 82 Thanks: 5 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	could you just run one side of the battery to that switch. breaking either the + or - there should kill the circuit?

11-04-2008, 09:41 AM	#3 (permalink)
muffinman U-P-G-R-A-Y-E-D-D Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Sunny South Florida Posts: 5,881 Thanks: 53 Thanked 283 Times in 272 Posts Blog Entries: 1 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	I found these online , maybe it will help you Here's the site:installing a racecar kill switch

11-04-2008, 11:36 AM	#4 (permalink)
mr2tim SUPERcharZed ToyZ RacZer Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: South Florida Posts: 1,789 Thanks: 8 Thanked 118 Times in 111 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (6/100% )	Hey, real nice Graphics there Mr Muffin plain an simple. Very Cool. Of course, I'm a SCCA Corner Marshall (Read Un-paid volunteer) and look at this stuff way different than most Drivers but when I installed our kill switch I put it "outside" the car on the trim panel next to the engine cover on the drivers side. That way when your car is on fire and the Workers drag you out the kill switch is right there where you and they are. Workers don't like to hunt around when things are on fire and they will go for the engine cover next, after rescuing you. Putting the kill switch over top the battery seemed really logical too as I only had to run 1-2 feet of big heavy wires. PS Make sure that fire extinguisher is easy to get to will ya?

11-11-2008, 05:36 AM	#9 (permalink)
328FTW Crazy Nasty Honey Badger Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: New Zealand Posts: 5,235 Thanks: 24 Thanked 266 Times in 239 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	If it is not a double throw switch and only has a single pole that can kill the engine you could run the alternator through it to the battery side but make sure you put a 70amp fuse or so on it so if something does go wrong it pops the fuse instead of just setting the car on fire. Sometimes it is even mandatory to fuse the alternator charge wire in-line. I know that kills the engine.

11-21-2008, 03:52 PM	#10 (permalink)
Everett Lovin' the curves! Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Decatur,IL/Solomons,MD Posts: 1,445 Thanks: 42 Thanked 65 Times in 59 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	So did you ever get around to installing the kill switch, Ken? I'm interested to see!

12-04-2009, 09:01 AM	#11 (permalink)
granracing No Skills Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	My advice – install the kill switch where it can easily be turned off while you’re tightly secured in your driver belts AND by corner workers. Quite honestly, YOU will be more likely to turn the kill switch off than a corner worker. With the first car I built, I installed the kill switch on the hood of my car where it wasn’t accessible to me. At one of the races, I ended up sliding off into one wall, bounced off and went into another wall in a place where I absolutely could not get out of the car safely. (At Lime Rock, just down the hill a bit perpendicular to on coming traffic. Nice, huh?) While I was perfectly fine physically, the car was smoking. Corner workers did not dare get on the track, and I couldn’t turn the kill switch. That incident caused me to build another car, one where I learned from all of my previous mistakes. The first thing I did was mount the kill switch onto the roll bar which I could reach, and a corner worker could readily see and is easily accessible via the driver’s window area. I have since needed to turn the kill switch off while out on the track a few times, and was sure glad it could be reached. Another good reason for putting it in this location is it reduces the amount of exposure the kill switch has to the elements (rain and snow). Not a bad thing to help prevent it from failing when you need it most. (I created the kill switch diagrams muffinman references.) Dave Gran http://www.GoAheadTakeTheWheel.com

12-04-2009, 09:52 AM	#12 (permalink)
kbrew8991 gimme some turns Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,685 Thanks: 76 Thanked 82 Times in 70 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	welcome Dave