Mr2man's build thread: 700+whp, high comp 5sgte, full race, 6262 turbo

[mr2man]

Mr2man's build thread

Keep following this thread as I will keep updating it.

Well its fall/winter time again, and that means that the racing season is over it is time for winter upgrades. This last season I hit my goal of running a 10 second quarter mile time, it was a 10.9 @ 132mph. The car had a lot more left in it, as that was my first clean pass that I made at high boost. A week or two later I took the car to the track again and my luck was not so good this time. I made ONE pass and the block started spewing out coolant. The following day I pulled off the turbo/manifold and I could see the crack in the block. So I ordered a 98+ 5s block to convert to a 5sgte, but the block didn't show up in time to do any more racing this year. So I have decided to change some things up.

Here is a in car video of the run that cracked my block, I didn't even know it happened. My buddy in the mustang at the end of the track told me to pull over because my car was smoking.

YouTube - mr2 - 12.1 at 125mph

Changes:

98+ 5s block
High compression CP pistons
Full Race Exhaust Manifold
Precision Billet 6262 Turbo
Custom 4" vband downpipe and exhaust (stainless of course)
Precision 46mm Vband Wastegate
L19 Headstuds
ID2000 or Bluemax Injectors

Possible Changes:

Upgraded ignition system (if mine doesn't hold up)
Linelock
Slicks and skinnies
93+ Lip

Goals:
700whp
140mph trap speed
Be able to drive the car to and from the track

Parts for sale (I will be adding more to this list):
CP stroker pistons
FIC 1150cc Injectors
ARP Head Studs
AEM 3.5 bar map sensor
ATS GT3082 Turbo kit - Pending sale
5s Block - Pending Sale

Special offer:
Eric at Full Race has decided to run a sale on there manifolds if you mention my mr2oc username "mr2man". He is offering 10% off there manifolds if you mention my username!!!! Everyone knows full race makes the best manifolds, so why go with anything else?

His contact info is:
eric@full-race.com
602-437-2101

My manifold isn't here yet, but this is the one I am getting except thermal coated in black.


Here is the new 98+ 5s block. Interesting fact, according to the place I got it from it came out of a 1994 car.

Block as I got it.


After putting the freeze plugs in and paint. Notice the "factory" oil feed that came on this block


98+ style 5s blocks do not have holes drilled for the axle carrier bearing so you have to drill and tap those.

Old motor out of the car


This is why you can't make 500+whp on a 3s block

It also cracked the outside of the block, which was a coolant leak i could never seem to find.

New 10:1 vs Old 8.5:1 pistons


New bottom end assembled

[SW21T]

I'll be keeping an eye on this thread. Great job, keep it up

[koji]

Sorry if this is a newb question (new here and not familiar with your previous build) but what headwork did you have done in order to flow enough to support that level of horsepower?

[mr2v63vz]

hey so do what do you think the pros are to building up a 5s as apposed to a 3s?
im just curious cus you see a hell of alot of 3s is it easier?

[mr2man]

Originally Posted by koji

Sorry if this is a newb question (new here and not familiar with your previous build) but what headwork did you have done in order to flow enough to support that level of horsepower?

I had mcs motorsports build the head. The stock head flows very well and does not require much porting.

The head consists of:
MCS Super Flow Head
Stage I Super Flow Port & Polish
Competition Valve Job
Ferrea 1mm oversize Competition Plus Valves
HKS 264 duration cams (intake & exhaust)
ATS Valvesprings
Fidanza Adjustable Cam Gears
Shimless Bucket conversion

Originally Posted by mr2v63vz

hey so do what do you think the pros are to building up a 5s as apposed to a 3s?
im just curious cus you see a hell of alot of 3s is it easier?

3s blocks consistently crack around the water pump area if you run more than 450whp. My original block was a 3s block, and it was making close to 600whp and thats why mine cracked. The advantage of using a 5s block is the sidewalls are twice as thick and if you go with a 98 or new 5s block they changed the casting design in the water pump area to make it stronger so that it won't crack.

[mr3]

I love how the tack bounces around like crazy each shift. Run it out to 8k then it drops down to 1k then right back to 8k. I'll be following along with this build even though my new car is just for the looks not for speed.

[etc…]

I'm confused about which pistons are the 8.5:1 and which are the 10:1. From the picture of the cracked block and the newly assembled block, both pistons look like the picture of the 8.5:1 piston that is on the left side of the picture next to the 10:1 piston on the right. Yet you seem to indicate that you are going from a 8.5:1 piston to a 10:1 piston.

[mr2man]

Originally Posted by mr3

I love how the tack bounces around like crazy each shift. Run it out to 8k then it drops down to 1k then right back to 8k. I'll be following along with this build even though my new car is just for the looks not for speed.

Yeah, the stock tach freaks on when you hit the rev limiter because its an ignition cut with the aem. The other thing that happens with the stock tach is it doesn't move fast enough, so I usually shift 500-750rpm sooner that what it indicates.

Originally Posted by etc…

I'm confused about which pistons are the 8.5:1 and which are the 10:1. From the picture of the cracked block and the newly assembled block, both pistons look like the picture of the 8.5:1 piston that is on the left side of the picture next to the 10:1 piston on the right. Yet you seem to indicate that you are going from a 8.5:1 piston to a 10:1 piston.

Sorry, I had the picture labeled backwards. The 8.5:1 pistons have a dish in them, where the 10:1 pistons are flat.

[Don't Worry, It's Just Me]

Originally Posted by etc…

I'm confused about which pistons are the 8.5:1 and which are the 10:1. From the picture of the cracked block and the newly assembled block, both pistons look like the picture of the 8.5:1 piston that is on the left side of the picture next to the 10:1 piston on the right. Yet you seem to indicate that you are going from a 8.5:1 piston to a 10:1 piston.

If you look at the pic of the two pistons side by side the old ones are on the right.

[Bak@EMSPowered]

Looks good man. Great work!

[mr2magic]

Do you have any prices for the parts you're looking to sell?

[mr2man]

Originally Posted by mr2magic

Do you have any prices for the parts you're looking to sell?

I made a for sale thread here: FS: CP pistons, 1150cc injectors, arp head studs, 3.5 bar maps sensor

[mr2man]

More progress from the weekend.

[mr2magic]

I want that block, I want that oil pan......tell you what! You just build the 700whp monster together and give it to me. I will pay you anything up to and including 10 bucks

[mr2man]

Originally Posted by mr2magic

I want that block, I want that oil pan......tell you what! You just build the 700whp monster together and give it to me. I will pay you anything up to and including 10 bucks

Haha keep dreaming

[mr2magic]

Damn!! What'd I do wrong???

[MDoe8]

Awesome!!! Good luck on the build!

[mr2man]

I got my new FIC 2150cc injectors on Friday, but they might be the wrong ones? I will have to find out, they are too short.




I did some work on the valve cover, welding on two -10 AN fittings and filling in and smoothing out some of the holes. Its very time consuming.

before


after (not done yet...)

[mr2man]

I got my new injector adapters yesterday, so now they are the correct size. Its crazy how small the injector itself really is. Its tiny!


This is the injector by itself.


2150's vs old 1150's


New turbo and wastegate showed up today.

Precision 6262 billet turbo oil cooled (no water ports). 46mm wastegate, the cool thing with these new precision wastegates is that they come with 3 different springs for different psi's.

[datguydeni]

damn that rpm gauge is going WILD