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#21 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: victoria AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,829
Thanks: 88
Thanked 64 Times in 60 Posts
My Google Map iTrader Rating: (4/100% ) |
No need to , if that amp has the writing on it thats it................
The fuse is small And if its not a high current amp forget it And if its less than $800 really forget it............. |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 103
Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader Rating: (0/0% ) |
Mandalay knows his $hit!!! VERY IMPRESSIVE SIR!!!
To the OP... please do not take any offense to this: You are way overthinking this process given the quality of the amp you are using. If you were using all competition level audio equipment, these details would definately matter, but considering you're using very low end equipment, no matter how much thought you put into it, you can only hope to achieve mediocrity. For the tiny cockpit of a MR2, (if you have a half-ass decent head unit) run your speakers off of your head unit and use that amp to run 1 sub. Should be more than enough sound for the tiny car. Make sure that your sub doesn't require tons of power or that little amp won't move it. Personally, I would pawn that amp and step up in quality. If it were me and I were on a budget, I would buy a 5 channel amp like the Alphasonik PMZ12005A or the Hifonics ZXI 8010 (those are the cheapest I would look at though). You could also get some components for the front soundstage, not run any rears (since the cars so small you don't need the rear fill anyway), and get a 3 channel amp to run the whole system, or run the components off of the deck and get a decent mono channel amp... There's an infinite # of options and possibilities... Despite the fact that quality craftsmanship seems to be on the decline, you typically still get what you pay for. |
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