Greddy Emanage Ultimate....

Hellstorm · 07-24-2007, 08:43 PM

Would this be sufficient enough to tune in some after market cams in my gen3 swap and have it perform properly? Or will i need a complete stand alone? THx.

Weasy2k · 08-01-2007, 02:22 PM

What you looking to tune? how aggressive are the cams? most of the time the stock ecu will be fine unless they are 27x*

PETC · 08-01-2007, 02:28 PM

So HKS 272 Exhaust/Intake cams can't be run with the stock computer?

Weasy2k · 08-01-2007, 03:05 PM

they can but you wont get great results cause of it. The flap door style afm really sucks so if at idle there is lots of duration and overlap the afm door will fluctuate greatly causing a very crappy idle. I have had problems with that on other afm equipped toyotas (3vz-e) once it moves tho it is pretty damn good.

BUT if you got with that kind of cam setup then a standalone is strongly recommended or if you are good enough wiring/tuning wise use a piggyback like smt6 to convert afm to maf

PETC · 08-01-2007, 03:23 PM

Gen 3 is MAP.

Weasy2k · 08-01-2007, 03:26 PM

Oh snap....missed that part!

Hellstorm · 08-01-2007, 04:52 PM

Well ****...... here is going to be the set up im going to do. And i was told if i got cams on the gen3 i would Def. need a stand alone or it wouldnt run:

MCS Forged Stage I Gen3 Stroker Shortblock:

3S block, torque plate bored, honed, deglazed, vatted, cleaned, painted, assembled
5S crank destroked to 3S rod sizes, balanced with rotating assembly, micropolished
King Engine Bearings & Thrust Washers
CP 86.5MM forged pistons, 9.0:1 compression, .020 over bore
Eagle H-Beam Rods
ARP Headstuds
New OEM seals, gaskets, oil strainers, rear seal retainer
Cometic MLS Headgasket
OEM Oil Pump
Water Pump
Timing Belt, tensioner

MCS GEN III STAGE III Superflow head:
Stage III P&P
Ferrea 1mm OS valves
HKS 264 cams
Fidanza Cam Gears
Stock components
------------------
SPEC Stage II Clutch
Water injection
Ko racing intake
Greddy side mount intercooler kit
Dual Spal engine lid Fans
Walbaro 255 fuel pump
Stock ct20b Turbo
Blitz turbo timer and boost controller set at 20psi.
Blitz blow off Valve.
I think thats it.

Will it run fine for a little while until i save up for the stand alone and dyno tune?

PETC · 08-01-2007, 07:24 PM

I'd consider running a different turbo than the CT20B if you plan to be boosting above 18PSI.

The compressor wheels like to explode past that what with them being ceramic and not steel.

Hellstorm · 08-01-2007, 08:05 PM

Really now? damn thats no fun. I would but i have limited money right now..... How long might it last at 18psi? And i still need to know if it will run ok without a stand alone.

RickyB · 08-01-2007, 08:52 PM

You've spent a lot of money building a +500rwhp capable motor and are going to run it with a 250rwhp turbo and engine management setup. That's fine as long as you keep things sane for now while you save your money to finish it properly. Do not buy an emanage or any other piggyback at this time. Take it to a dyno and increase the boost starting from 10psi and watch the AFRs and listen for detonation until it reaches the point where it is not prudent to keep going. Do NOT exceed 18psi if you are using pump gas or 22psi if you run 100 octane. As soon as you can afford it, buy a stand alone and get the car properly tuned. Keep saving and then buy a good midsize turbo kit (either T3/T4, TD06 or GT30 based), bigger fuel system and retune the setup.

You've laid a good foundation, now it is up to you to either blow it up by going for too much too soon or build it into something strong by staying conservative while you save up to finish it properly.

07-24-2007, 08:43 PM	#1 (permalink)
Hellstorm I Bet I Can Break It. Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: The Woodlands, Texas Posts: 734 Thanks: 12 Thanked 9 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	Greddy Emanage Ultimate.... Would this be sufficient enough to tune in some after market cams in my gen3 swap and have it perform properly? Or will i need a complete stand alone? THx.

08-01-2007, 02:22 PM	#2 (permalink)
Weasy2k 3.4L 10K RPM In the works Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 8,895 Thanks: 34 Thanked 80 Times in 66 Posts iTrader Rating: (9/100% )	What you looking to tune? how aggressive are the cams? most of the time the stock ecu will be fine unless they are 27x* __________________ -Johnny @ Sea2Sky Tuning - www.sea2skytuning.com http://www.mr2.com/forums/sea2sky-tu...-out-sale.html

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

08-01-2007, 02:28 PM	#3 (permalink)
PETC √(176400) Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 2,412 Thanks: 27 Thanked 53 Times in 45 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	So HKS 272 Exhaust/Intake cams can't be run with the stock computer?

08-01-2007, 03:05 PM	#4 (permalink)
Weasy2k 3.4L 10K RPM In the works Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 8,895 Thanks: 34 Thanked 80 Times in 66 Posts iTrader Rating: (9/100% )	they can but you wont get great results cause of it. The flap door style afm really sucks so if at idle there is lots of duration and overlap the afm door will fluctuate greatly causing a very crappy idle. I have had problems with that on other afm equipped toyotas (3vz-e) once it moves tho it is pretty damn good. BUT if you got with that kind of cam setup then a standalone is strongly recommended or if you are good enough wiring/tuning wise use a piggyback like smt6 to convert afm to maf

08-01-2007, 03:23 PM	#5 (permalink)
PETC √(176400) Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 2,412 Thanks: 27 Thanked 53 Times in 45 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	Gen 3 is MAP.

08-01-2007, 03:26 PM	#6 (permalink)
Weasy2k 3.4L 10K RPM In the works Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 8,895 Thanks: 34 Thanked 80 Times in 66 Posts iTrader Rating: (9/100% )	Oh snap....missed that part!

08-01-2007, 04:52 PM	#7 (permalink)
Hellstorm I Bet I Can Break It. Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: The Woodlands, Texas Posts: 734 Thanks: 12 Thanked 9 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	Well ****...... here is going to be the set up im going to do. And i was told if i got cams on the gen3 i would Def. need a stand alone or it wouldnt run: MCS Forged Stage I Gen3 Stroker Shortblock: 3S block, torque plate bored, honed, deglazed, vatted, cleaned, painted, assembled 5S crank destroked to 3S rod sizes, balanced with rotating assembly, micropolished King Engine Bearings & Thrust Washers CP 86.5MM forged pistons, 9.0:1 compression, .020 over bore Eagle H-Beam Rods ARP Headstuds New OEM seals, gaskets, oil strainers, rear seal retainer Cometic MLS Headgasket OEM Oil Pump Water Pump Timing Belt, tensioner MCS GEN III STAGE III Superflow head: Stage III P&P Ferrea 1mm OS valves HKS 264 cams Fidanza Cam Gears Stock components ------------------ SPEC Stage II Clutch Water injection Ko racing intake Greddy side mount intercooler kit Dual Spal engine lid Fans Walbaro 255 fuel pump Stock ct20b Turbo Blitz turbo timer and boost controller set at 20psi. Blitz blow off Valve. I think thats it. Will it run fine for a little while until i save up for the stand alone and dyno tune?

08-01-2007, 07:24 PM	#8 (permalink)
PETC √(176400) Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 2,412 Thanks: 27 Thanked 53 Times in 45 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	I'd consider running a different turbo than the CT20B if you plan to be boosting above 18PSI. The compressor wheels like to explode past that what with them being ceramic and not steel.

08-01-2007, 08:05 PM	#9 (permalink)
Hellstorm I Bet I Can Break It. Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: The Woodlands, Texas Posts: 734 Thanks: 12 Thanked 9 Times in 3 Posts iTrader Rating: (7/100% )	Really now? damn thats no fun. I would but i have limited money right now..... How long might it last at 18psi? And i still need to know if it will run ok without a stand alone.

08-01-2007, 08:52 PM	#10 (permalink)
RickyB Automotive Cartographer Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: California Posts: 221 Thanks: 0 Thanked 114 Times in 33 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	You've spent a lot of money building a +500rwhp capable motor and are going to run it with a 250rwhp turbo and engine management setup. That's fine as long as you keep things sane for now while you save your money to finish it properly. Do not buy an emanage or any other piggyback at this time. Take it to a dyno and increase the boost starting from 10psi and watch the AFRs and listen for detonation until it reaches the point where it is not prudent to keep going. Do NOT exceed 18psi if you are using pump gas or 22psi if you run 100 octane. As soon as you can afford it, buy a stand alone and get the car properly tuned. Keep saving and then buy a good midsize turbo kit (either T3/T4, TD06 or GT30 based), bigger fuel system and retune the setup. You've laid a good foundation, now it is up to you to either blow it up by going for too much too soon or build it into something strong by staying conservative while you save up to finish it properly.