standalone opinion

[baktasht]

Originally Posted by Sang

If you buy the Hydra Nemesis, you have to get it through Kris Osheim at KO Racing. Kris has exclusivity starting this year.

Do you mean that RickyB won't be selling them any longer?

[karl]

Originally Posted by CJMR2T

The main problem with COP's is they over heat and lose charge ability due to this when used in long time duration like road racing.

it's not so much even that, it's that there isn't enough space in the plug well for a coil of significant inductance. that means to get similar energy, you need to ramp up the coil current, which is where the heat comes from.

there's also no cooling for the coils when they're down in the plug well. the COP units that you can see being used are the type with the coil at the top of the coil stick, outside the plug well.

the other type of COP you'll see used in racing is powered by a CDI, rather than charging the coils inductively. they store the energy in a capacitor, instead of in the magnetic field of the coil.

Originally Posted by mr2_mk1.5

from all that I've read, I don't see how that actually is, on wasted spark you still have to jump the plug on the cylinder thats on the exhaust stroke adding more resistance and wasted energy,

it doesn't really waste energy. the main issue is the ionization voltage of the spark gap. that voltage increases with cylinder pressure, and the breakdown voltage in the cylinder on the exhaust stroke is almost nothing in comparison to the cylinder on the compression stroke. once that breaks down, energy essentially avalanches through the ion pocket with relatively low resistance. there isn't much energy lost in the 'wasted spark' at all. it's less than jumping the gap in a distributor even, since the spark gap is smaller.

But lets take one quick look at things here, GM was really the main pioneer of wasted spark and the main purpose of it was to add more stability to the ignition system, for example running 8 cylinders on one coil and a distributor was murder on the coil and wasn't very reliable at high rpms so they brought out the wasted spark system which replaced one coil/distributor with 4 coils and a crank/cam sensor,

kind of. it's not that it was murder on the coil, it's that the coil ran out of time to charge at higher RPM on a V8. with more coils, you can overlap the charge times (look into the motorola 3334 smart dwell chip) and you get double the charge time. that, coupled with improvements in coil drivers and low resistance coils allows for plenty of charge time and full charge at almost any RPM, even in a V8.

the reason i can see for indy cars still using wasted spark is because they don't use extremely high boost, alchol fuel and its cheaper

the indycar engines that ran these coils were pushrod engines and were allowed significantly more boost than the OHC engines. they ran them because they worked, and worked well.

coil on plug works fine in high boost applications when used with a CDI. if you're running an inductive setup, wasted spark is the way to go.

[mr2_mk1.5]

Well I'm more then likely to go with AEM and an M&W coil driver so then I'm guessing for reliabilty for that system the best would be to run wasted spark. But if that is the case then in your opinion Karl what is the best way to do that and what coils would be best because I was just trying to build a quick firing ignition system for high boost and RPM. thank you for your input

[karl]

with the M&W igniter module, i would run a 2 channel with GM DIS coils. i have a sneaking suspishion (spelled wrong because the language filters here are effing retarded)- based on the charge current clamp and operating temp range- that the M&W igniter just uses the bosch BIP373 ignition IGBT for each channel, so you could easily build something comparable for much much less than the price of the M&W. the bosch IGBTs are pretty indestructable. i think diyautotune.com sells em for like $8 ea, and they really only need a resistor on the gate for the ECU to drive them.

the GM coils don't need much dwell at all. ideally, you'd want to be able to ramp the dwell time with load, so you're really only pushing the coils when you need serious spark. i believe they work well with cranking dwell around 3mS, and running dwell at 1.5-2mS. if you have an extra channel to datalog, put a 0.1ohm resistor inline between the igniter and ground and log voltage drop across it. every 100mV=1A. 7.5-8A is more than enough current at full load.

[Sang]

Originally Posted by baktasht

Do you mean that RickyB won't be selling them any longer?

He still takes care of previous customers. AFAIK he is not taking orders for new ones unless they are still in the transitioning phase where Kris is still taking it over. Either way, Kris is the person to go to now.

[MR2enV]

I like the STINGER EMS 4424(better is 8860), or new thing going around witch is getting your car to run with a OBD1 honda p28 ecu. installing it with chrome or hondata etc and you basically have a fully programable standalone for less then 650$... I have already seen this done on AE86, AW11, SW20, and a starlet with a 3rd gen 3sgte.. I hear great things about the hydra but I have yet to tune with one. The AEM EMS is user freindly and i also like it...

[tadamany]

Holy Cow those turbos are huge...

[mr2_mk1.5]

which one, the GT3082r or the GT40-45 I plan on running when/if I do a twin charged setup

[karl]

Originally Posted by MR2enV

new thing going around witch is getting your car to run with a OBD1 honda p28 ecu. installing it with chrome or hondata etc and you basically have a fully programable standalone for less then 650$... I have already seen this done on AE86, AW11, SW20, and a starlet with a 3rd gen 3sgte...

Being the second person to run this setup on a 3SGTE, I can say its a good option IF you can do the DIY stuff yourself or have someone who can mod the dist for you. Driveability is amazing though

I get about 5 pms weekly on the other board asking me to build them a setup like mine. I posted the writup on it so people wouldn't need me to build it for them.

One of my winter projects is a replacement board for the honda ecu that swaps out the HIC1 board (board that conditions the dizzy signals) for a board that translates the denso 24+2 wheel so the honda ecu can read it. Meaning honda ecu with stock mr2 distributor. I should have the coil on plug/waste spark multiplexer done by spring too.

If someone wanted to just use crank triggers that can be done too. Its pretty versatile hardware.

[karl]

also, don't just limit yourself to honda if you're thinking about doing a bastard EMS.

i think the EVO8 and EVO9 ECUs are pretty powerful, and their tuning software/hardware is cheaper than the honda stuff. they can run either MAF or speed-density too.

GM has some pretty good stuff too. motronic too. the options are limitless really.