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Old 04-11-2009, 07:25 AM   #1 (permalink)
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axles removal

what is the best way to remove axles from hubs and from the tranny?
i ruined one in the past from bad advice from an idiot.
thank you to anyone who can help.
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Old 04-12-2009, 07:00 AM   #2 (permalink)
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To get the axles from the tranny I use a BFB (Big F***ing Bar) and just lever them. If you have 2 good levers use one either side and they just pop out easy.

For removing from the brake hubs the way I do it is to use a big hammer but DO NOT hit the end of the axle heads with it you will mushroom the tops (spent an hour fixing this a couple days ago). Get a soft metal to place on the end of the axle to stop it getting damaged, I use this big bit of bronze type stuff on top of a wood block to hold it for each hit, anything that can transfer the shock without damaging the thread will do. Alternately put an old nut threaded almost all the way till the axle comes out the other side but not quite and hit that. It stops the axle getting damaged using the nut as a "sacrifice" the nut may or may not get damaged.

That is how I do it and I do this every other week, I have a bunch of old nuts of the common threads now that are bashed to death that I use for hitting studs of various sizes including axles. Note that if the nut is not threaded on far enough it will damage the threads of both the nut and the stud thread if it cocks over when you hit it so wind it on all the way till the threaded stud/bolt/axle/whatever almost comes out the other side of the nut.
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Old 05-20-2009, 01:15 AM   #3 (permalink)
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So to pull the axle out, remove the boot then just wedge a bar in there and pull really hard? should I be concerned with clips or anything? What about putting the axle back in?
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Old 05-20-2009, 03:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I leave the axle nut on the axle while ram a long piece of log at it.
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Old 05-20-2009, 05:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I just lever them out with a bar, well actually one eiter side works better (sometimes I use a hammer if they are difficult). They just suddenly feel like they have let go and then either fall on the floor or you can slide it out by hand, there is just a spring retainer in a groove on them that compresses when you do this and expands again once they are out (you will see it with the axle out of the box). To put them back in tap in with a hammer until you feel the clip click back into place or it doesn't go in any more. They are not all the delicate it is just a messy job especially if you forget to drain the oil.
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Old 05-20-2009, 08:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You ain't gonna "pull" it out...

Notice the folks from New Zealand don't drain the oil till the end?
(Now that's funny!!LOL)
Good advice from down under tho..
(BTW NA capacity is 2.7 Qts, SC is 4.4 Qts)

I'm gonna try the big log method the next time I pull 'em, that sounds like more fun and primitive like.

Undoing the lower contol arm (2 bolts on bottom)will give you some play in the rear axle carrier allowing one to pull the rear axle carrier out slightly for the axle shaft to clear the carrier.

Be sure to get 137lbs torque on the axle bolt on re-assembly.

Basic re-alignment is done with a very straight object placed across the center of the outside of the wheel, loosen both nuts on the suspension arms and turn the center section. (see photo)

Ya'll have fun now!
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Old 05-20-2009, 09:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I honestly just use a pickle fork.

It works so much better than using 2 prybars.
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:01 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm trying to remove the driver side axle.....omfg. I tried prying it on both sides, with no movement. I've got a piece of square mild steel that i've cut a V into and am placing that on the inboard joint, and hitting the other side with a 3lb sledge... nothing.

Does this really just "pop off"? Are you sure you guys aren't making fun of us?

What do you guys use for bracing when you're prying, there just isn't a whole lot of stuff downthere that lends itself to prying against (given the angles etc.)
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