Find Intake Leaks!!

Enthalpy · 10-03-2006, 11:33 PM

I'm tired of this thread being unavailable to the mr2board.com members. So, here it is! If you EVER wanted to know how to find intake leaks, DO THIS! It really works! This was originally posted by Brian "NoShoes" Moore.

Tools required:

Air compressor with regulator
Drill
8mm socket and socket wrench
adjustable wrench
1/4" NPT tap

Shopping list for Home Depot:
2.5" - 4" (depending on turbo inlet size) PVC pipe plug
2.5" - 4" ( " " ) hose connection
2.5" - 4" ( " " ) hose clamp
1/8" NPT to air compressor hose connection

Many variations can be done with this setup, but the basic idea is to drill a hole in the PVC pipe plug and tap it for the air compressor hose connection. What matters is the inlet size of the turbocharger. My particular turbo (and most single turbo supras) has a 4 inch inlet, so I used 4" components, but someone with a CT26 would use a smaller plug.

You then attach the hose to the PVC plug and use one clamp to secure it in place, and the other to secure the hose to the inlet of the turbocharger.

Turn the pressure on your air compressor pressure regulator down to 20-30 psi, hook up the air hose, and listen/feel for leaks!

In addition, you MUST open the throttle body to check for leaks in your intake manifold and fuel rail grommets!

Special note for those that still have the factory idle air control valve. You WILL leak out of the factory IAC valve unless you supply power to the black with yellow stripe wire and ground to one of the other wires that go to the IAC. The easiest way to bypass doing the wiring is to take a pair of vice grips and block off the IAC valve air tube that goes back to the intake.

Have fun with this one folks!

Weasy2k · 10-04-2006, 01:40 AM

Great info thanks for the crossover

Sang · 10-04-2006, 03:18 AM

ahh, the infamous noshoes leak tester... i think i've linked to his original there dozens of times... fortunately i never had to use it myself.

Enthalpy · 10-04-2006, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boz

ahh, the infamous noshoes leak tester... i think i've linked to his original there dozens of times... fortunately i never had to use it myself.

Yup. Me too. This is why we need this thread over here. I want to link to it.

Admins - Thanks for the sticky!

Dumbscout · 10-06-2006, 12:02 PM

that's awsome, I should probably try this, seeing as how I can hear a bit of hissing while driving, more than I used to hear at least.... lol. Great sticky!

PeStVic · 02-02-2007, 01:52 AM

definately something everyone should have :-P

ill try it out if i get the supplys somtime soon:-P

Tyler H · 02-02-2007, 07:27 AM

Hey man...I can see where your leak is.

rushMr2 · 02-12-2007, 12:45 AM

What size coupler will I need for the CT26, 2 1/2" ?

Enthalpy · 02-12-2007, 01:44 AM

It's been literally years since I built mine, but I think I went with a rubber ABS hump hose coupler (flexible coupler for ABS piping).

I then cut the coupler at its largest part for larger-inlet turbos. I use the smaller side of the coupler for the CT26.

I want to say I went with a 2.5" coupler since the OD of most higher-performing turbo inlets are closer to 3".

REDLINERANDYX · 04-10-2007, 06:21 PM

thats a great idea im build one tonight. home depot here i come

Enthalpy · 04-10-2007, 07:25 PM

It is a great idea! It's originally the brain child of Bryan "NoShoes" Moore, a legendary tuner in the MR2 community.

reflexx · 04-17-2007, 09:54 AM

you need to take a sander or grinder and grind down the edge of the pvc plug, so there's a lip for the hose clamp to hold on to, much like you'd see a bead on a manufactured intake piping.... that pvc plug came out on me twice and at 30psi pressure it's like a pneumatic hammer, smashed my thumb black and blue

Enthalpy · 04-17-2007, 10:44 AM

30 psi?!! You only need a few psi. I used 10, as I recall. Worked just fine.

baktasht · 05-16-2007, 01:58 PM

Incase anyone wants to just buy a nice boost leak tester instead of building their own:

http://www.mr2board.com/forums/ems-p...tml#post183975

JeezyMister2 · 04-20-2009, 01:05 PM

Baktasht, your link doesn't work, for me at least.

baktasht · 04-20-2009, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeezyMister2

Baktasht, your link doesn't work, for me at least.

you can find them here: Intake Leak Tester Intake Leak Tester [] - $44.99 : EMSPowered, High Quality, Great Service, Low Prices

jholder · 04-23-2009, 03:23 PM

I'm hitting home depot as soon as my little girl gets up from her nap.

To verify, the stock ct26 has an external diameter of 2.75" correct?
The rubber part of the hose.. is that available from home depot/lowes or did you have to pick up the hose separately (i.e. it looks like radiator hose, but i haven't seen any radiator hose with an internal diameter that great.

Enthalpy · 04-23-2009, 03:27 PM

Wow, that EMSPowered one looks nice.

Just to reiterate, make sure the PCV breather isn't pressurized as well or you will pressurize your crankcase, possibly folding the lips of the oil seals. Definitely plug up the IAC line, the valve is spring-loaded to sit half-way open and will hiss air.

jholder · 04-23-2009, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Enthalpy

Wow, that EMSPowered one looks nice.

Just to reiterate, make sure the PCV breather isn't pressurized as well or you will pressurize your crankcase, possibly folding the lips of the oil seals. Definitely plug up the IAC line, the valve is spring-loaded to sit half-way open and will hiss air.

Could you clarify the PCV breather part? I mean, I hate to sound stupid, but i know it stands for positive crankcase ventilation, and there is usually a valve that goes bad, but I'm not sure how to check if its pressurized, or how to unpressurize it if it is.

Thanks for responding.

Enthalpy · 04-23-2009, 09:02 PM

Sure.

The stock PCV system on generations 1-3 of the 3S-GTE consists of a vacuum line and a breather line. The vacuum line is meant to be connected to the manifold and to "see" positive boost pressure. The breather line is the much larger line coming out of the valve cover near the distributor. That line goes to the pre-turbo intake piping and is meant to relieve any pressure. It was not meant to be pressurized.

You will be leaving the vacuum line in place, but if you accidentally pressurize the breather too, you have now pressurized both crankcase connections, and the pressure has nowhere to go.

If you directly connect the leak tester to the turbo inlet and not to any pre-turbo plumbing, you won't have to worry about the breather being pressurized.

10-03-2006, 11:33 PM	#1 (permalink)
Enthalpy EMS Harmonizer Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,219 Thanks: 8 Thanked 54 Times in 42 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Find Intake Leaks!! I'm tired of this thread being unavailable to the mr2board.com members. So, here it is! If you EVER wanted to know how to find intake leaks, DO THIS! It really works! This was originally posted by Brian "NoShoes" Moore. Tools required: Air compressor with regulator Drill 8mm socket and socket wrench adjustable wrench 1/4" NPT tap Shopping list for Home Depot: 2.5" - 4" (depending on turbo inlet size) PVC pipe plug 2.5" - 4" ( " " ) hose connection 2.5" - 4" ( " " ) hose clamp 1/8" NPT to air compressor hose connection Many variations can be done with this setup, but the basic idea is to drill a hole in the PVC pipe plug and tap it for the air compressor hose connection. What matters is the inlet size of the turbocharger. My particular turbo (and most single turbo supras) has a 4 inch inlet, so I used 4" components, but someone with a CT26 would use a smaller plug. You then attach the hose to the PVC plug and use one clamp to secure it in place, and the other to secure the hose to the inlet of the turbocharger. Turn the pressure on your air compressor pressure regulator down to 20-30 psi, hook up the air hose, and listen/feel for leaks! In addition, you MUST open the throttle body to check for leaks in your intake manifold and fuel rail grommets! Special note for those that still have the factory idle air control valve. You WILL leak out of the factory IAC valve unless you supply power to the black with yellow stripe wire and ground to one of the other wires that go to the IAC. The easiest way to bypass doing the wiring is to take a pair of vice grips and block off the IAC valve air tube that goes back to the intake. Have fun with this one folks!

10-04-2006, 01:40 AM	#2 (permalink)
Weasy2k 3.4L 10K RPM In the works Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 8,895 Thanks: 34 Thanked 80 Times in 66 Posts iTrader Rating: (9/100% )	Great info thanks for the crossover __________________ -Johnny @ Sea2Sky Tuning - www.sea2skytuning.com http://www.mr2.com/forums/sea2sky-tu...-out-sale.html

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10-04-2006, 03:18 AM	#3 (permalink)
Sang Go Magic! Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Home: Tampa, FL School: Gainesville, FL Posts: 3,384 Thanks: 19 Thanked 220 Times in 200 Posts iTrader Rating: (5/100% )	ahh, the infamous noshoes leak tester... i think i've linked to his original there dozens of times... fortunately i never had to use it myself.

10-06-2006, 12:02 PM	#5 (permalink)
Dumbscout MR-Crusher Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Greensboro, NC Posts: 428 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	that's awsome, I should probably try this, seeing as how I can hear a bit of hissing while driving, more than I used to hear at least.... lol. Great sticky!

02-02-2007, 01:52 AM	#6 (permalink)
PeStVic Cage Fighter Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 375 Thanks: 8 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	definately something everyone should have :-P ill try it out if i get the supplys somtime soon:-P

02-02-2007, 07:27 AM	#7 (permalink)
Tyler H New 2 Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Knoxville TN Posts: 910 Thanks: 7 Thanked 25 Times in 22 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	Hey man...I can see where your leak is.

02-12-2007, 12:45 AM	#8 (permalink)
rushMr2 The Youngster Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 211 Thanks: 7 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	What size coupler will I need for the CT26, 2 1/2" ?

02-12-2007, 01:44 AM	#9 (permalink)
Enthalpy EMS Harmonizer Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,219 Thanks: 8 Thanked 54 Times in 42 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	It's been literally years since I built mine, but I think I went with a rubber ABS hump hose coupler (flexible coupler for ABS piping). I then cut the coupler at its largest part for larger-inlet turbos. I use the smaller side of the coupler for the CT26. I want to say I went with a 2.5" coupler since the OD of most higher-performing turbo inlets are closer to 3".

04-10-2007, 06:21 PM	#10 (permalink)
REDLINERANDYX No Skills Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: NOR-CAL Posts: 24 Thanks: 2 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	thats a great idea im build one tonight. home depot here i come

04-10-2007, 07:25 PM	#11 (permalink)
Enthalpy EMS Harmonizer Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,219 Thanks: 8 Thanked 54 Times in 42 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	It is a great idea! It's originally the brain child of Bryan "NoShoes" Moore, a legendary tuner in the MR2 community.

04-17-2007, 09:54 AM	#12 (permalink)
reflexx Banned Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 539 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	you need to take a sander or grinder and grind down the edge of the pvc plug, so there's a lip for the hose clamp to hold on to, much like you'd see a bead on a manufactured intake piping.... that pvc plug came out on me twice and at 30psi pressure it's like a pneumatic hammer, smashed my thumb black and blue

04-17-2007, 10:44 AM	#13 (permalink)
Enthalpy EMS Harmonizer Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,219 Thanks: 8 Thanked 54 Times in 42 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	30 psi?!! You only need a few psi. I used 10, as I recall. Worked just fine.

05-16-2007, 01:58 PM	#14 (permalink)
baktasht EMSPowered.com Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 4,578 Thanks: 19 Thanked 130 Times in 115 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (41/98% )	Incase anyone wants to just buy a nice boost leak tester instead of building their own: http://www.mr2board.com/forums/ems-p...tml#post183975

04-20-2009, 01:05 PM	#15 (permalink)
JeezyMister2 Certified G Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Gulfport, MS Posts: 328 Thanks: 11 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post My Google Map iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	Baktasht, your link doesn't work, for me at least.

04-23-2009, 03:23 PM	#17 (permalink)
jholder I put the ho in 'hosale Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 444 Thanks: 8 Thanked 14 Times in 11 Posts iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	I'm hitting home depot as soon as my little girl gets up from her nap. To verify, the stock ct26 has an external diameter of 2.75" correct? The rubber part of the hose.. is that available from home depot/lowes or did you have to pick up the hose separately (i.e. it looks like radiator hose, but i haven't seen any radiator hose with an internal diameter that great.

04-23-2009, 03:27 PM	#18 (permalink)
Enthalpy EMS Harmonizer Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,219 Thanks: 8 Thanked 54 Times in 42 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Wow, that EMSPowered one looks nice. Just to reiterate, make sure the PCV breather isn't pressurized as well or you will pressurize your crankcase, possibly folding the lips of the oil seals. Definitely plug up the IAC line, the valve is spring-loaded to sit half-way open and will hiss air.

04-23-2009, 09:02 PM	#20 (permalink)
Enthalpy EMS Harmonizer Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 1,219 Thanks: 8 Thanked 54 Times in 42 Posts My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Sure. The stock PCV system on generations 1-3 of the 3S-GTE consists of a vacuum line and a breather line. The vacuum line is meant to be connected to the manifold and to "see" positive boost pressure. The breather line is the much larger line coming out of the valve cover near the distributor. That line goes to the pre-turbo intake piping and is meant to relieve any pressure. It was not meant to be pressurized. You will be leaving the vacuum line in place, but if you accidentally pressurize the breather too, you have now pressurized both crankcase connections, and the pressure has nowhere to go. If you directly connect the leak tester to the turbo inlet and not to any pre-turbo plumbing, you won't have to worry about the breather being pressurized.