Which BOV?

[ecm garrett]

Originally Posted by shavedturbo

i changed from my pefectly working hks ssq, to the stocker, and it wasnt a very big difference at all. it was a hair smoother but thats it. i never had any problems w/the ssq. you are right that the stocker works like the ssq, but it doesnt vent, which many ppl want. i am sick and tired of people knocking of buying blow off valves and having an afm. Neither myself or my friends have ever had problems with our properly adjusted blow off valves. if you do, something is wrong. also, gas mileage hasnt changed at all.

thank you
so many people just believe what they hear on some of these mr2 boards and they have no real idea about it.
ive had an apex bov for several years now and im not going to lie, it runs rich sometimes and there have been times when ive stalled out.....but that was when i first got it. havent had any problems in years.

[flyingbrick]

I dare you to go back to an OEM bov for a day, see how things run compared to what you are used to.

Perhaps its just the JDM cars that suffer so badly perhaps- i dont know.

-Nathan.

[turbonatormr2]

Originally Posted by flyingbrick

I dare you to go back to an OEM bov for a day, see how things run compared to what you are used to.

Perhaps its just the JDM cars that suffer so badly perhaps- i dont know.

-Nathan.

Good point. This way he can compare and post he comparison of the two.

[TKMR2]

i've had a greddy type s on my car for for about a year and a half now with zero problems. I didn't notice any performance difference of any kind.

[Saint]

hey guys.

so, the immortal stock bov/bpv vs aftermarket bov topic haha.

first off, lemme suggest a couple BOVs that i've found to be good, before i get into a few details i think everyone should know about BOVs.

stock bov is THE BEST!!! use it if you can, although it's nice to change your bov every now and then to keep you happy. ^_^ but ya, always keep your stock one handy. it almost never breaks, is the most stable, and is the most responsive. it also won't give you a "shiny thing in the engine bay ticket" haha. there are a few cases of these failing, however, so if that's the case, well, i dunno, get another stock one? or buy an aftermarket one haha.

Greddy bovs are good, cheap, they do the job. (make sure to not overtighten these, they often are very stiff to begin with). what i did was took out the smaller of the two springs in the Type-S i had. the RS, i don't know about, not sure if it has 1 spring or two. if you are having issues with very long duration blow off, it's probably too stiff for your car. if it does not fix it on the softest setting, check to see if there's a helper spring you can take out, then readjust as needed.

HKS SSQV is good, pull type, does not really require any adjustment. just leave it on a soft setting and it should be fine.

blitz DD, good bov, pretty responsive, holds a good amount of boost, but can be a little tricky in different weather. i noticed i had to adjust this a bit more than others, but atleast it's made for "street" type boost levels.

Sard BOV is probably the coolest sounding one lol. don't buy it because i want one and i wanna be original. XD Sard always makes good stuff, so i'm betting it's good. one thing is i hear the spring tension is a bit on the stiff side. i haven't gotten my hands on one to take apart yet though, so i dunno if there's an easy remedy or not. might be able to get a hold of one in the next few weeks.

anyhow, now to the BOV dispute info stuff or whatever it's called.

ok, just lettin you guys know, the stock bpv (or bov, i won't get into that one), is the best one you can use on your car. in stock setup (with it recirculating) it is also the best setup you can use.

now, why is that?

first off, pull type BOVs (i'll call them all bov's for now because it's just simpler) are always more responsive and accurate, as well as stable. the reason being that pressure is the controlling factor in blow off, not spring tension. spring tension, obviously, can only really be set in one way, manually, and hence will not always function properly at low vs high or high vs low boost levels, as someone mentioned before.

another thing is that pull type BOVs tend to last longer because there's no spring to get worn out. also does not require adjustment as air pressure controls the unit, so it auto adjusts itself so to speak. it will hold as much or as little boost as you want without any modification.

ok, recirc vs atmospheric:

for all the USDM motors, they will run better (if in near stock setup) if your BOV is recirced. reason being, you have an AFM. that afm is anticipating a certain amount of air, and tells your injectors to dump in a complimentary amount of fuel. when your bov blows off into the atmosphere (sounds like a bad space shuttle accident =X haha), there is now less air, for a split second, than there should be. therefore, your car runs rich for that split second, and in some cases can actually cause your car to bog and/or stall.

ok, another thing about BOVs. i have tried a LOT of BOVs haha. yes yes, i know, i'm a ricer. they all make your car feel/respond differently. try out your aftermarket bov, then try putting the stock one back in, then try with recirc and without. you will notice a different as you get on the throttle, as you get off the throttle, and when slowly letting off the gas. also, watch your boost gauge.

i've noticed the stock one does respond best in my case without the recirc hose. (i have a Gen3 engine, it does not have AFM, has MAP... hehe suckers... >=D) i only say this because i like how it feels. i can get off power very quickly, and i like that hehe, makes for nice direction changes.

anyhow, that's my quick info on BOVs. and yes, i love being a ricer.

-john

P.S. don't tighten a bov too tight, you'll get compressor surge, and blow your turbo prematurely. if you take care of your turbo correctly (my ct20b has 80k on it and does not blow any oil at all), it can last over 100k easily. if you don't, it'll fail at 60k. XD

ooo i forgot to mention one thing about taking care of your turbo, although this is kinda off topic... it's important though! the thicker oil you use, (i use 5w40), the more important it is to warm up your car properly!!! if you drive (and God forbid boost) on a car that has not been fully warmed up yet (yes, even if your temp gauge says warm, it may just be your water, your oil may take 2 - 4x longer to fully warm up!!!), your oil is probably at a higher pressure than your turbo is designed for! especially since we have ceramic turbo bearings stock, we really really really need to keep an eye out for this! this will greatly decrease the life of your turbo if you do not warm up the car properly, and drive it gently for the few minutes just after it's warmed up.

[flyingbrick]

HAHAHAHAHAHAHHAa. What a way to jack the thread!

[N8s93turbo]

they make a recirculation kit for the hks ssqv, anyone tried it?

[dannn]

^ few people have tried it but it defeats the purpose of getting an aftermarket bov, for the sound. the ssq with recirc wont give you the sound of a vented one.

[Saint]

Originally Posted by flyingbrick

HAHAHAHAHAHAHHAa. What a way to jack the thread!

i wasn't trying to jack a thread, just give a lot of info that i think would be related/helpful T_T

-john

[Saint]

Originally Posted by N8s93turbo

they make a recirculation kit for the hks ssqv, anyone tried it?

there is a recirc kit for the hks ssqv, but like the other guy said, it kinda defeats the purpose hehe.

might as well stay with the stock bpv right?

-john

[dannn]

im sticking to stock one.

[Weasy2k]

drill ahole in the outlet tube of the stock BPV and be happy

[flyingbrick]

but you will run lean?

[bufferdan]

Originally Posted by Weasy2k

drill ahole in the outlet tube of the stock BPV and be happy

Yeap that works and makes some noise Some say that it make suck air in though...dont know if its been proven or not.

[Big Thurs]

The stocker seems like the obvious logical choice. On my current two and previous two I disconnected the bypass hose. Both were less responsive and got worse gas mileage. As far as the "running lean with the hose off," in theory its true, but whenever the valve is open under vac the ECU is in closed loop: ie O2 correction. My two idles great, and has the loudest blowoff I have heard from any car. The only part I have seen that breaks on the OEM BPV is the little VTV. Without the stock VTV my car would not idle at all, not to mention the horrible driveability.
As far as the small size of the OEM BPV: The primary purpose of venting a portion of boost is to prevent compressor surge. It doesn't take a gigantic hole opening in your IC pipe to do this.

The stocker is the best option IMHO and it comes on the car FREE. I'd rather spend $200 dollars on megasquirt or a wideband controller or brake pads or something.

Drilling that hole pulls in unmetered air (on a GenII) all the time, including while boosting. Technically, it will run leaner, but have any of you seen dyno pulls on the stock ECU? It runs insanely rich. Could it be running too lea? Possibly, but someone needs to hookup a wideband and make some runs with and without the hole exposed.

[Weasy2k]

lots of people have done it without an issue

[turbonatormr2]

Originally Posted by bufferdan

Yeap that works and makes some noise Some say that it make suck air in though...dont know if its been proven or not.

On this picture you have two conections to the stock bov. I noticed that you have a smaller hose on the stock Bov where is that hose connected to exactly?

[Big Thurs]

The smallest one (under the slightly bigger one) just goes to the VTV

[turbonatormr2]

Originally Posted by Big Thurs

The smallest one (under the slightly bigger one) just goes to the VTV

Do you have a picture of the VTV?

[Big Thurs]

Its just a one-way restriction valve. Substitutes usually do not work.

This is the only pic I could find