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Old 02-07-2008, 09:58 PM   #21 (permalink)
i gots great moobs!
 
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* not a dyno jet, but here is my dyno the image is kinda light you may need to adjust brightness to see

things that matter -
gen 3 - stock ecu - stock injectors
apexi intake w/ custom 45* piping
berk intercooler
berk exhaust
mbc
hks 264's exhaust is retarded 3*
walbro 255
2871r kit.

that was at 15psi in 3rd gear, my car looks laggy on paper but i can promise it is a much broader power band, perhaps the roller on the dyno was too light. once i get my power fc tuned and get a good ebc that spool will be much quicker im sure.
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Old 02-09-2008, 01:50 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sang View Post
What i'm saying is just this: Outside of the results from Hux Racing, all dyno's that i have seen of mostly stock gen3's do not reach 300whp until you are into boost pressures requiring race gas. 19+ psi.

Back in the day, Dave jenny needed 22+ psi to barely break 300.

This is what I have seen to be "typical" results from a gen3.

This is a local owner's car in Tampa/St.Pete FL area. Dyno was done at XAT Racing and 20psi with MINES ecu.

http://www.fl-mr2.com/files/MR2drive...CU_20psi_Z.jpg

This was just one example of what I, personally, have found to be "typical" stock gen3 results. Up until Emily/Hux Racing posted their graphs, "typical gen3 results" and "300+whp pump gas" did not go in the same sentence with the ct20b.

That is all.

To get comparative, 3rd party results outside of Hux Racing. I encourage you to dyno your gen3 Trey, on a DynoJet. And come back with your results please.
Alright that sound good. Also sang I'm not going to quote you on any of this, I just want a general idea of what to expect. I'm waiting to get my paypal situated right now so I can buy another transmission from ncturnal so it'll be about 2 weeks until I can get mine dyno'd.
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Old 02-11-2008, 10:46 AM   #23 (permalink)
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sang - dyno you posted has a really terrible a/f curve though.. makes you question the rest of that tune.
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Old 02-11-2008, 12:03 PM   #24 (permalink)
n/a auto to gen III
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdchmiel View Post
sang - dyno you posted has a really terrible a/f curve though.. makes you question the rest of that tune.
I don't think that car had fuel management other than stock..
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Old 02-11-2008, 12:40 PM   #25 (permalink)
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nice nice...keep us post about that ct20b...
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Old 02-12-2008, 02:57 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdchmiel View Post
sang - dyno you posted has a really terrible a/f curve though.. makes you question the rest of that tune.
Looks normal to me...Low throtte/rpm lean, then injectors peg the dyno. If he had dyno'd with more power to lean out the injectors a little, it might've been a "smoother" curve.

The car in question was not "tuned" outside of a basic MINE's rom tune.

Here is the same car, on a SARD rom tune.

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Old 02-13-2008, 01:41 PM   #27 (permalink)
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That's unfortunate.... looks like Mines and Sard simply remove boost/speed cuts and leave it at that, because my bone stock gen3 AFR curve looks IDENTICLE to that with no tuning at all.
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Old 02-13-2008, 04:36 PM   #28 (permalink)
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That dyno graph has the typical fluctuations on the topend from the flapper door opening on the ct20b that we incountered. We are now in the process of making an upgraded actuator since HKS does not offer this for the ct20b turbo. For some reason my green mr2 has a stiffer factory actuator than the other genIII ct20bs we dynoed for comparison in the shop. That accounts for my car being able to run more boost/hp before this would occur.
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Old 02-13-2008, 04:50 PM   #29 (permalink)
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posebel? twin charg 4 cilinder

i what too ask is it posebel to make the 4agze supercharg twin charg ???
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Old 02-13-2008, 07:06 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostd4 View Post
That's unfortunate.... looks like Mines and Sard simply remove boost/speed cuts and leave it at that, because my bone stock gen3 AFR curve looks IDENTICLE to that with no tuning at all.
They likely add timing though. They usually make a little more power. It seems its not coming from fuel adjustments so it must be added igntion timing.
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Old 02-13-2008, 07:12 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emily Hux View Post
That dyno graph has the typical fluctuations on the topend from the flapper door opening on the ct20b that we incountered. We are now in the process of making an upgraded actuator since HKS does not offer this for the ct20b turbo. For some reason my green mr2 has a stiffer factory actuator than the other genIII ct20bs we dynoed for comparison in the shop. That accounts for my car being able to run more boost/hp before this would occur.
You can also see that what should be a torque "curve" looks more like an inverted torque "V" (or rather "/\"). The torque rises to its peak and then does not follow what I would think the VE curve of the engine should look like. Another sign that boost spiked and then the door blew open.

Along with making more HP than torque by a long shot. The relative numbers that Sang posted (much higher torque) remind me of a CT26 equipped car where boost at peak torque is much higher (like 15-16psi), and boost at peak power is more like 12psi as it is falling faster (obviously a different reason for the CT26, but just an example of torque falling fast because of boost drop off).
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Old 02-13-2008, 07:23 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sang View Post
What i'm saying is just this: Outside of the results from Hux Racing, all dyno's that i have seen of mostly stock gen3's do not reach 300whp until you are into boost pressures requiring race gas. 19+ psi.

Back in the day, Dave jenny needed 22+ psi to barely break 300.

This is what I have seen to be "typical" results from a gen3.

This is a local owner's car in Tampa/St.Pete FL area. Dyno was done at XAT Racing and 20psi with MINES ecu.



This was just one example of what I, personally, have found to be "typical" stock gen3 results. Up until Emily/Hux Racing posted their graphs, "typical gen3 results" and "300+whp pump gas" did not go in the same sentence with the ct20b.

That is all.

To get comparative, 3rd party results outside of Hux Racing. I encourage you to dyno your gen3 Trey, on a DynoJet. And come back with your results please.

I was in the car with dave the night he was running 22 PSI in his widebody, he was spiking around 22-23 I believe, he ran a 12.5 the next day.
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Old 02-17-2008, 05:29 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Yes, you can twincharge a 4agze.
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Old 02-17-2008, 05:37 PM   #34 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=Emily Hux;281077]Yes, you can twincharge a 4agze.[/QU
you can put a head of a 4age 20valve and put it tu twin charge??
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Old 02-17-2008, 05:39 PM   #35 (permalink)
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you can put a head of a 4age 20valve and put it tu twin charge??
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Old 04-16-2008, 06:41 PM   #36 (permalink)
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no, you can't put a 4a head on a 3s, and if you have something to ask please create a thread in the appropiate forum rather than hijacking another.
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Old 11-18-2008, 03:43 AM   #37 (permalink)
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interesting thread.. any updates on this?
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Old 11-18-2008, 08:32 AM   #38 (permalink)
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We did modify the factory wg and put the factory intercooler back on. The ct20b at 24psi was just surging going on boost down track and noted on dyno. Apparently the ct2ob needs the back pressure of the factory intercooler, since alot of the surging was corrected when we did this. The car reacted perfectly just setting the boost at 22-23psi. Still have the problem of spinning in the 60', so we installed a line lock through the cruise control paddle on the steering wheel. I do have our custom coilovers on the rear so she should properly squat and use the 255 radials. Just waiting to be able to drive again.
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Old 12-12-2008, 01:43 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Don't the turbine wheel/shaft love to explode past 16 psi on the 20Bs?
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Old 12-12-2008, 03:38 PM   #40 (permalink)
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The turbine wheel will go out at any boost level if you have engine internals or media from powder coating a valve cover coming through it. Haven't experienced a ct20b just going out at normal levels (16-22psi).
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