3SGTE: ssautochrome t3/t4 any good?

[Slidealliance]

Is your engine rebuilt or forged internals? I refuse to read through all of this thread to find out

But if you are, go as hard as you feel comfortable with on the dyno. I got cocky on my last setup and cracked my block, so make sure you don't go too much all at once

[Adrians89MR2SC]

Originally Posted by mr2magic

Adrian I think you're getting ahead of yourself Run the thing in for a bit and then see to it that you dyno the car. You are going to have to be the one who tells us what kind of performance to expect from this setup! Noone else has run this thing as a test before, so how can you ask people to tell you what to expect

Can you spell guinea pig!!!

ummm .. G ... U ... I .. N .. uuuuuuuuuhhhhhhh .. can you use that in a sentence

hahaha

i was just wondering what psi level i should keep it under for now .. i think i got a 7 or 8 psi spring .. so im gonna run it for a little while like that, i dont thing i have gained much .. i guess i might need a tune for the extra air being pushed .. or it might be because ive been driving my 91 camaro for the last three weeks ..

[karl]

FWIW, i know you're close to summit, but for those who might have to order that oil line, mcmaster.com sells braided assemblies with female -4 ends for about $10 in the length you need for that feed line.

it's always good to see people experimenting.

[Adrians89MR2SC]

yea .. i got a 18mm to 6 an adapter for the block .. and then a 6 to 4 an adapter .. its where the 18mm thread goes into the block

there is a guy who put up a "3sgte rebuild" site and he used a similar adapter .. but on his he has a crush washer .. so i guess thats what i need b/c mine wont leak when i tighten it up, and then itll leak after a couple miles of driving ..

[karl]

Originally Posted by Adrians89MR2SC

yea .. i got a 18mm to 6 an adapter for the block .. and then a 6 to 4 an adapter .. its where the 18mm thread goes into the block

there is a guy who put up a "3sgte rebuild" site and he used a similar adapter .. but on his he has a crush washer .. so i guess thats what i need b/c mine wont leak when i tighten it up, and then itll leak after a couple miles of driving ..

when i made my feed fitting for my TD06, i just took an M18x1.5 oil drain plug and drill/tapped it for a 1/8NPT to -4 fitting too. the fitting came with my oil line, so the grand total was like $2.50 for it.

[kblake]

The E153 tranny drain plug is M18x1.5 and can be drilled and tapped as listed above.

[Adrians89MR2SC]

Originally Posted by karl

when i made my feed fitting for my TD06, i just took an M18x1.5 oil drain plug and drill/tapped it for a 1/8NPT to -4 fitting too. the fitting came with my oil line, so the grand total was like $2.50 for it.

yea .. i was thinking about that .. i went and picked up 18mm x 1.5 drain plug with gasket so i could put the gasket on my adapter but the adapter i got doesnt have a flange on it for a gasket ..

so i might get the plug drilled and tapped for a pipe thread to 4an adapter .. ill probably get the machine shop at college to do it tommorow ..

is a pipe thread a special tap, or is it just a standard thread b/c then i could just do it at my friends house on a drill press tonight

[karl]

i'd let the college machine shop do it if you have a choice. it CAN be done with a straight drill, and mine hasn't leaked a drop so far with 5k on it, but ideally you'd want to taper ream the hole, then use the 1/8NPT-27 tap to thread it. the taps are tapered too, and usually if you drill the hole a little on the large side (like, +1/64 over) and use plenty of teflon tape it'll be just fine. i think i used a 5/16 drill for it, and mine was a REALLY tight fit. a 21/64 drill is probably a better fit. the NPT is a specific tap though, but it should be available at the machine shop or at any hardware store. hell, they'd probably even tap it for you. most mom-n-pop hardware stores have services like that.

if you're not sure, buy an extra to practice on. if it works the first time, do the second one and sell it to somebody in the same position you are

[Adrians89MR2SC]

ive used taps / dies before .. and the plug is only a couple dollars at orielly's

my friend has all the taps / dies and a drill press so ill probably do it tonight .. if it doesnt work out then ill just get the machine shop to do it like my turbo housing

summit has a 90* 1/8" npt to 4an adapter for $7 so ill pick me up one in about an hour and i got the plug at home ..

[shimric]

Originally Posted by Adrians89MR2SC

ive used taps / dies before .. and the plug is only a couple dollars at orielly's

my friend has all the taps / dies and a drill press so ill probably do it tonight .. if it doesnt work out then ill just get the machine shop to do it like my turbo housing

summit has a 90* 1/8" npt to 4an adapter for $7 so ill pick me up one in about an hour and i got the plug at home ..

What are you tapping?

I have a few tap/die sets, I still don't have all of them.

"If it doesn't work out"

If you're not certain just take it to the machine shop. Putting metal back that should have been removed isn't exactly easy/possible.

You don't want to "taper ream" the hole, don't think you can ever do that. You want to use a the hole to be countersunk so the fitting will thread easy/properly. Reamers are for smoothing out drilled holes. Like gun barrels. Not all taps are tapered. A lot are. Not all.

<< Has Machining degree.

[Adrians89MR2SC]

ok fixed the leak .. i also turned $34 worth of AN fittings and adapters into $8 of oil pan plug and one fitting

i got a 18mm x 1.5 oil pan bolt / gasket from orielly auto parts (auto parts store) for $2

then a 90* 1/8" npt to 4an adapter from summit .. $6

drilled a hole through the 18mm bolt / plug .. then tapped it for a 1/8" fine thread ..

took all the old adapters off and put this one on .. works perfectly .. NO MORE LEAKS

the old fitting didnt have a flange to put a washer on, so the oil pressure would just blow the thread sealer or teflon tape out in a couple miles .. the oil pan bolt has a flange with a rubber washer

now i just gotta fix the speedo .. i think its the gear .. the cables are all fine .. so ill take it apart at college tommorow ..

can i take the speedo gear drive assembly out of the tranny without loosing fluid?

ive done it on my 89, but i dont remember if i lost fluid .. and iirc the mk2's need the rear motor mount removing to get it out

[Adrians89MR2SC]

just thought of something .. my whole speedo cable drive gear / mechanism is all new in my supercharged 89 and its the same part # as a 91 turbo

im probably gonna pull it out my 89 tommorow morning and put it in my 91 turbo down at college ..

[kblake]

Originally Posted by Adrians89MR2SC

can i take the speedo gear drive assembly out of the tranny without loosing fluid?

There are two gears. There is a little plastic gear on top, and then there is one down inside the tranny that drives it. The little one is easily removed and replaced. I believe you have to drop the tranny to replace the other one.

[ZachAttack]

Boost controller, FCD, and dyno, please.

[Adrians89MR2SC]

ok, i fixed the speedo .. took the new one out of my 89 mr2 that toyota screwed me $350 on last year ..

the 89 mr2 SC is the same speedo gear except the angle piece that the cruise control screws onto .. but i dont have cruise, so i dont need it

the angled part on the old one seized up in mine and the plastic gear got stripped out ..

neways .. its all fixed now ..

Originally Posted by ZachAttack

Boost controller, FCD, and dyno, please.

got a slight rubbin issue with the timing belt .. then im gonna double check my timing and get it to a dyno as soon as theres a dyno day around here .. .. im curious to find out myself

just a wild estimate right now at 7-8 psi would be around 200 whp ..

[jdchmiel]

you can prob hook up the vacuum lines with a T fitting and a restrictor in order to let the ECU keep it at your 7-8 psi for limp mode / low boost, but up it to stock 11ish psi when it is happy.

[Adrians89MR2SC]

Originally Posted by jdchmiel

you can prob hook up the vacuum lines with a T fitting and a restrictor in order to let the ECU keep it at your 7-8 psi for limp mode / low boost, but up it to stock 11ish psi when it is happy.

not getting what your saying?

im not using the Turbo vsv any more .. i capped it off .. and the external wastgate vacuum line goes to the compressor housing .. then the nipple on the top of the wastegate is capped off ..


should i get a SAFC or something to get the air / fuel better when i get to a dyno and get a boost controller

the2ndr was pushing 310 with his old mr2 and all he had was a SAFC and the air / fuel on the dyno sheets looked good ..

im not expecting more than 300 hp from the ssac kit .. im just using it untill i have enough $$$ to do a full buildup and ill probably get the street brawler kit or similar later on for a 350-400 hp build .. but thats probably later this year / early next year

as for now .. i like the kit .. its very strong and spools good, the only thing i notice is that whenever i only boost a little and shift early (daily driving to save gas) that instead of hearing the BOV go off, i just hear a whoooosh kinda sound behind me .. but its only if i shift right after the turbo starts to spool ..

is that bad? .. if so how do i fix it ..

other than that, i love the kit .. when im in 5th cruising at 55mph i can just press the gas a little and it sounds like a jet engine starting .. the turbo starts to spool then the wastegate opens slightly .. then when i let off the gas pedal the bov goes off .. makes me everytime ..

[jdchmiel]

i mean hook the VSV back up, all it does is bleed off boost pressure like a MBC to raise it from 7 to 11, right? Set it up again like stock is set up so the ecu can say when to go from safe 7 psi to everything is happy 11 psi. If you do it through a restrictor, you can adjust the 11 psi up to just under your boost cut.

[Adrians89MR2SC]

oh .. gotcha .. i was actually thinking about that the other day .. ill probably try that and see how it goes .. ill just T into the wastegate line and attach the vsv back up

will it be safe spooling this thing up to 11 psi with everything stock since it pushes more air than the ct26 (as in leaning out the motor, etc)

as for the weird sound .. im wondering if i might have a very slight case of compressor surge .. but if i spool it up a little more, then the bov pops open .. i wonder if i need a better BOV .. mine is a no name tial style blow off valve .. it sounds really good, i dont want it to screw up the turbo ..

[kercha83]

is that turbo similar to this one.

Originally Posted by Adrians89MR2SC

oh .. gotcha .. i was actually thinking about that the other day .. ill probably try that and see how it goes .. ill just T into the wastegate line and attach the vsv back up

will it be safe spooling this thing up to 11 psi with everything stock since it pushes more air than the ct26 (as in leaning out the motor, etc)

as for the weird sound .. im wondering if i might have a very slight case of compressor surge .. but if i spool it up a little more, then the bov pops open .. i wonder if i need a better BOV .. mine is a no name tial style blow off valve .. it sounds really good, i dont want it to screw up the turbo ..