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#1 (permalink) |
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No Skills
Join Date: Apr 2009
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car tries to start soon as the batery is connected.
i just swap the 3rd gen in to my car. and soon as i hook the battery up the car tries to start. without the key. also during all of this i melted a brown wire that goes to the top o2 sensor. i am very lost and have no clue what to do now.
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#2 (permalink) |
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NoAgendaShow.com
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There is a ground connector on the body wiring harness that runs along the drivers side of the car, just behind the drivers seat. I had a similar problem before when that one was not connected, albeit on a NA. In your case it sounds like there may be multiple wiring problems. What harness did you use and how was everything wired up?
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#3 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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well ive got a 3rd gen body harness and everything is just pluged in. is there anything i need to by pass?
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#4 (permalink) |
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NoAgendaShow.com
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#5 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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yeah right behind the drivers side seat of the car. its hooked down.
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#7 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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ok. ill check those out. another question. when i did my swap did i need to splice any wires on the body harness? i have a full 3rd gen body harness. and a full 3rd gen engine harness.
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#8 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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anybody got any advice on my question?
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#9 (permalink) |
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NoAgendaShow.com
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If you used the gen3 body harness, the only symptom that I'm aware of if you don't repin the harness is your tailights will illuminate all of the time.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
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Depending how you repined your trunk body plug (or kickpanel plug if you are going about things that way), it might be possible to somehow put a constant switched 12v source to the starter relay.
I can't remember the wire order offhand, but one wire goes to the starter solenoid, one wire goes to that additional loop/terminal that bolts on top of the main battery wire at the starter (these are the higher voltage thicker wires). One wire is ground for the relay, and the last one is the actual signal from the ignition to start. Neither of your smaller gauge wires should have constant 12v when the ignition is on. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Actually, come to think of it, it sounds like you simply have your starter solenoid wired straight to either your main battery wire, or wired to the white wire running from the starter relay to the 12mm starter bolt.
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#12 (permalink) |
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One solution, perhaps not an elegant one, would be to remove the smaller gauge wire to the starter solenoid, which may be black with a white stripe. Then tap into your ignition switch (perhaps the red wire based on the BGB) to re-wire the trigger for the starter. I would put a fused relay in the circuit.
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#13 (permalink) | |
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No Skills
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Quote:
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#14 (permalink) |
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An even less elegant solution would be to disconnect your starter relay, and simply touch off the starter solenoid to the main battery cable when you want to start.
Unfortunately he's using the gen3 body harness. I always just reuse the original body harness. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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There's two wires that are bolted to the starter that are held down by that 12mm bolt. The third goes to the starter solenoid on that single pin black plug.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to mr220v For This Useful Post: | tdj_1992 (07-29-2009) |
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#16 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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ok i just looked at those. and there right according to what your saying. i also checked some fuses. the ecu ignition one was blown. the little 7.5 fuse. what do you think about that?
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#17 (permalink) |
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Beams Owners Group
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Don't know about the blown fuse, but in the case of the starter engagement, if you have verified the wires to the starter are correct, then somehow you are tapped into a constant 12v wire to the relay engagement wire.
Since you are running a gen3 body harness, I would suggest rechecking your wiring at the kickpanel. Like I say, I always use the body harness that's there, but from what I understand there are some changes. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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do you know what these changes would be? haha
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#20 (permalink) |
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No Skills
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ok ill try that. thanks
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