3S-GTE USDM Turbo Engine help removing axles

jholder · 10-24-2009, 01:02 AM

91T, manual.

I've read the other posts on here that talk about removing axles. Most people seem to say "just pry them out"......

I'm prying and trying to drive them out with a hammer and bar. They're not moving an inch. At this point, I'm not actually sure they are designed to come out. Nothing I do seems to make any headway. Am I missing something basic? Is the car supposed to be in 3rd gear with the turn signal on, and they can only be removed on Tuesdays? This is pissing my off, I almost stabbed my car tonight. I had to put everything down and come inside.

Neither the passenger or driver axle are coming out of the tranny. I wonder if the axle bearing on the pass side might have fused to the shaft or something. I sprayed it with PB blaster, we'll see if it loosened up later.

Whats the trick?

mr2_mk1.5 · 10-24-2009, 01:16 AM

take the wheels off, set the e-brake, remove the allen headed screws that connect the axle to the output shafts(looking at the axles from the underside of the car you will see them), there should be six of them and make match marks between the axle and output shaft, undo the axle nut and make sure the axle slides in the hub if not use a rubber mallet or deadblow hammer to crack them free, undo the lower balljoint, get between the chassis and control arm with a big bar and pry down and pull the spindle away from the car once the balljoint is free, finally pull the axle down and out of the hub, word of caution be extremely careful with the inboard cv as its a plunge joint and if it slides to far it falls apart and is a real bitch to put back together

jholder · 10-24-2009, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr2_mk1.5

take the wheels off, set the e-brake, remove the allen headed screws that connect the axle to the output shafts(looking at the axles from the underside of the car you will see them), there should be six of them and make match marks between the axle and output shaft, undo the axle nut and make sure the axle slides in the hub if not use a rubber mallet or deadblow hammer to crack them free, undo the lower balljoint, get between the chassis and control arm with a big bar and pry down and pull the spindle away from the car once the balljoint is free, finally pull the axle down and out of the hub, word of caution be extremely careful with the inboard cv as its a plunge joint and if it slides to far it falls apart and is a real bitch to put back together

thanks 1.5,
I've got everything connected to the axle off, including the exhaust and crossmember and a bunch of other stuff. I just can't seem to get the axle to pop _out_ of the transmission. I'm at the point where I'm almost ready to drop the tranny to see if that would make them easier to get out.

mr2_mk1.5 · 10-24-2009, 04:02 PM

if you got the 6 bolts holding the axle to the output shaft of the transmission removed and it still won't come lightly tap the flange where they meet with a hammer, the only time you need to take the outputs out of the transmisson is if you are rebuilding or changing the oil seals and to get them you need to use a pry bar that will equalize the force, an old clutch fork works wonders and for the passenger side there is a steady bearing on the block you have to take the c-clip out of the bearing and unbolt it from the block

Black93Hardtop · 10-27-2009, 07:03 PM

I've never had a problem. My pry bar is 4 feet long and Snap-on. Maybe thats why??? haha.

mr2_mk1.5 · 10-27-2009, 09:36 PM

4 feet, no no my friend you need to get a 7 foot bar that way when your trying to seperate troublesome balljoints and the bar slips and knocks you off in the crotch then you have something to swear at, as for the axles I've never had a problem either, especially when my bolts snapped showing off to some girls, it came flying out pretty fast, I also found that thats the best way to seperate the outer cvs as well

Black93Hardtop · 10-28-2009, 12:20 AM

HAHAHA ROFLMAO.. Thats great.

I do have a 6 foot pry bar but it's so huge you cannot use it anywhere!

jholder · 10-29-2009, 11:16 PM

i just bought a 3 foot. gonna go give it a try.

jholder · 10-29-2009, 11:36 PM

they hate me. i think the tranny has to come out. I think the PO might have welded them in place or something

mr.ac · 10-30-2009, 05:48 AM

nope..pull it in a stright line, don't be afraid to use gas. mine is the same way. I'm a beefy dude myself, I can bench press well over 260lb no sweat, but I had call on my brother, the neighbors kids, and some alasken sled dogs and **** ourselfs just to pull out the alxe....and all that pain is do to a little snap ring... when you do take it out give it the finger and call it names.

10-24-2009, 01:02 AM	#1 (permalink)
jholder I put the ho in 'hosale Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 468 Thanks: 8 Thanked 16 Times in 12 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	help removing axles 91T, manual. I've read the other posts on here that talk about removing axles. Most people seem to say "just pry them out"...... I'm prying and trying to drive them out with a hammer and bar. They're not moving an inch. At this point, I'm not actually sure they are designed to come out. Nothing I do seems to make any headway. Am I missing something basic? Is the car supposed to be in 3rd gear with the turn signal on, and they can only be removed on Tuesdays? This is pissing my off, I almost stabbed my car tonight. I had to put everything down and come inside. Neither the passenger or driver axle are coming out of the tranny. I wonder if the axle bearing on the pass side might have fused to the shaft or something. I sprayed it with PB blaster, we'll see if it loosened up later. Whats the trick?

10-24-2009, 04:02 PM	#4 (permalink)
mr2_mk1.5 Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2009 Location: Regina, Saskatchewan Canada Posts: 165 Thanks: 0 Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	if you got the 6 bolts holding the axle to the output shaft of the transmission removed and it still won't come lightly tap the flange where they meet with a hammer, the only time you need to take the outputs out of the transmisson is if you are rebuilding or changing the oil seals and to get them you need to use a pry bar that will equalize the force, an old clutch fork works wonders and for the passenger side there is a steady bearing on the block you have to take the c-clip out of the bearing and unbolt it from the block Attached Thumbnails

10-29-2009, 11:36 PM	#9 (permalink)
jholder I put the ho in 'hosale Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 468 Thanks: 8 Thanked 16 Times in 12 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	sigh no love they hate me. i think the tranny has to come out. I think the PO might have welded them in place or something

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10-24-2009, 01:16 AM	#2 (permalink)
mr2_mk1.5 Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2009 Location: Regina, Saskatchewan Canada Posts: 165 Thanks: 0 Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	take the wheels off, set the e-brake, remove the allen headed screws that connect the axle to the output shafts(looking at the axles from the underside of the car you will see them), there should be six of them and make match marks between the axle and output shaft, undo the axle nut and make sure the axle slides in the hub if not use a rubber mallet or deadblow hammer to crack them free, undo the lower balljoint, get between the chassis and control arm with a big bar and pry down and pull the spindle away from the car once the balljoint is free, finally pull the axle down and out of the hub, word of caution be extremely careful with the inboard cv as its a plunge joint and if it slides to far it falls apart and is a real bitch to put back together

10-27-2009, 07:03 PM	#5 (permalink)
Black93Hardtop Rare 93' Hardtop Turbo Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Indiana Posts: 152 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	I've never had a problem. My pry bar is 4 feet long and Snap-on. Maybe thats why??? haha.

10-27-2009, 09:36 PM	#6 (permalink)
mr2_mk1.5 Cage Fighter Join Date: May 2009 Location: Regina, Saskatchewan Canada Posts: 165 Thanks: 0 Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	4 feet, no no my friend you need to get a 7 foot bar that way when your trying to seperate troublesome balljoints and the bar slips and knocks you off in the crotch then you have something to swear at, as for the axles I've never had a problem either, especially when my bolts snapped showing off to some girls, it came flying out pretty fast, I also found that thats the best way to seperate the outer cvs as well

10-28-2009, 12:20 AM	#7 (permalink)
Black93Hardtop Rare 93' Hardtop Turbo Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Indiana Posts: 152 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts iTrader Rating: (3/100% )	HAHAHA ROFLMAO.. Thats great. I do have a 6 foot pry bar but it's so huge you cannot use it anywhere!

10-29-2009, 11:16 PM	#8 (permalink)
jholder I put the ho in 'hosale Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 468 Thanks: 8 Thanked 16 Times in 12 Posts iTrader Rating: (4/100% )	i just bought a 3 foot. gonna go give it a try.

10-30-2009, 05:48 AM	#10 (permalink)
mr.ac Just Say NO to Snorkes Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Central Coast, CA Posts: 388 Thanks: 0 Thanked 19 Times in 18 Posts iTrader Rating: (1/100% )	nope..pull it in a stright line, don't be afraid to use gas. mine is the same way. I'm a beefy dude myself, I can bench press well over 260lb no sweat, but I had call on my brother, the neighbors kids, and some alasken sled dogs and **** ourselfs just to pull out the alxe....and all that pain is do to a little snap ring... when you do take it out give it the finger and call it names.