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Old 11-23-2009, 10:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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(3sgte)Boost???

Anybody know how much boost is safe for factory internals on 3sgte?? I know the fuel cuts stops it at 14.7=1.0bar!! Also want to upgrade exhaust but I want single instead of dual.. Any help or experience pointers would be nice!!
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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This is your slightly out of date bible, however it will answer your question and go beyond that, great read and it will get you excited (depending what car circle you are coming from) to get started.

3S-GTE Power Primer

depending on rev motor fuel cut is right around 10-13psi on USDM motors or so and 17psi or so on rev 3's (94+ jdm motors) iirc.

"how much boost?" has too many variables to answer really, more like how much HP can the stock block hanlde with supporting fuel mods, is around 400whp last i read.

275whp on stock fuel (this should make anyone happy in a street 2880lb car for starters).

the safest boost to run on stock ct26 turbo and stock fuel with normal bpu mods is 15psi to 16psi depending on area and fuel available (91 - 93 octane).

typical mods: (intake, intercooler, manual bleed/electronic, downpipe, exhaust, and the required clutch) and boost set to 15-16psi should get you around 200-225whp (large variance, but there have been claims in that range and greater, but depends on dyno). This is good for a sub 13 to high 13 second car depending on driver skill, possibly could get lower with driver mod and some more smaller mods.

read the primer, as stated, it is somewhat outdated when you get into the stock turbo modifications and upgrades, but it stands as a beginner and ntermediates bible....i still use it all the time, its great.

to raise boost, you will need a form of fuel cut defencer (fcd) or you will need to do the typical cap and plug which is explained in the power primer.

Due what any of us should do or have done and dont learn the hard way...change out and update all ignition component (plugs, wires, dizzy cap and rotor) and change your fuel filter if you have a chance. basic tuneup will help a lot and make you HAPPY!!!

welcome aboard.

Last edited by farvaric; 11-23-2009 at 11:11 PM..
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hey thanx for the reply. When you say cap the fuel cut you mean the hose plugging in the bottom im guessing..
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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there is a component in our cars...on i guess called the TVSV, this is one of the parts responsible for regulating boost in line with your WG to ensure you do not ruin the engine.

The TVSV is under the intake manifold in the engine bay. this has a line that runs off of it to one of two nipples on the WG. you will want to unplug this line from either location and cap both of them.

Once done, you can install a boost controller and run boost, but keep in mind that you no longer have the saftey of fuel cut so before you even consider getting a boost controller, due you tuneup, ensure your car runs right, then get a boost gauge prior to raising boost.

But read that link first, you will learn so much.

here is another link of what I am talking about with the TVSV:

http://www.twosrus.com/Articles/Inst...structions.PDF

Last edited by farvaric; 11-23-2009 at 11:42 PM..
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Wow that really is amazing help. I really want an electronic boost controller but I guess it goes both ways except for some of the intructions.
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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you can run an electronic but there are constant battles and discussions on that topic (hence one of the polls going on....i voted for MBC).

MBC is cheap and cost effective but the term "cheap" is wrongly aligned as it is actually very good. get a good ball and spring one like most of us running MBC's and you can set it and forget it. really the only real difference will be a digital display and convernience of in cabin changes, but you can get in cabin MBC' so that leaves you with a display and then the debate of whether or not EBC's are safer or not in comparison to MBC's.

I just say the less stuff in our engine bays the better....we all hate working on our motors...or secretly we do lol, it is cramped....it doesnt get any better when you start putting in upgrade parts like IC piping, IC, and upgraded turbo kits. Man, but what a car when she is loving you at that moment
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I second that. I love mine but I am dreading the time when something goes bad. I know my way around motors but im just kinda a noob at the turbo, I've always had n/a cars and bikes but like I said I am loving it!! Thanx though cause this has been a real help. And I did consider the MBC but I also like the digital display like you said!!
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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yea, just enjoy the car, and comes what may, i am dealing with some small issue right now with my setup, but i know it will get fixed

nice, what bike do you have, I have a modded kawi zx7. like the bike, but the car is my love

well, enjoy the car and dont sweat it, you have all the technical knowledge here, folks who built this communitty and some of the parts you will buy in the near future to get your HP up to the limits of that block even

if something bad happens, depending where you live, you will get folks to make aroadtrip to help you or at least get the guidance of what to do on your own, or how to talk to mechanics that will do it for you.
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Old 11-24-2009, 12:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thats encouraging lol.. I ride a slightly modded 06 gsxr 750 (sprockets, M4 exhaust, Bmc intake, Power Commander etc..) just basic mods. There already fast enough haha.. Also wanted to bring up the fact that at low rpm maybe 2-3k it has a small skip, didnt know if that might be turbo lag?? lol maybe not
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Old 11-24-2009, 12:10 AM   #10 (permalink)
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hmmmm, well, the turbo wont skip, but the turbo doesnt kick in till around 2800rpm or so due to turbo lag (but that is quick).

replace the ignition components i mentioned and the fuel filter, all cheap parts for what they are and it may take care of that skip or hiccup you may have, but check back in when you at least change your plugs and maybe fuel filter, both 20 minute jobs...the spark plugs take longer then the fuel filter imo.

get ngk bkr7e's (one step cooler) and gap them to .28

i just rocked a fuel filter from autozone along with the plugs naturally.

the wires will take longer as you will want the original TRD wires, they are the best and you can ebay new red ones for like 47 shipped like i did, or if you only see the 100 sets, support our vendors like tws'r'us or ems powered or ats, or MCW or others, they all have them.

EMS and TWOS'r'US have an ignition tune up kit that has everything including dizzy cap and rotor. this goes for around like 100+ bucks or so iirc.
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Old 11-24-2009, 12:17 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Its got new plugs gapped to that spec or very close lol. Ill change fuel filter tomorrow and check into those plug wires. Also gonna pull injectors and properly clean. If that doesnt work then ill start dropping money in it I guess. But like I said its just a small skip but just knowing its there is annoying ya know
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Old 11-24-2009, 12:25 AM   #12 (permalink)
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did you just wash it or get water into your engine bay???

if so, then it is most likely the dizzy cap and rotor. if not, change them anyways hehe.

so does it "skip" between only 2-3k or skip meaning you get a kick in the pants after 3k? if the latter is the case, then that is normal.

do you get any CEL or codes?
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Old 11-24-2009, 12:31 AM   #13 (permalink)
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No codes and no not a kick in the ass lol but just a small skip usual at 2 to 3k but wide range maybe 2-4k. I can feel the turbo after around 3 but there is usually a skip before it spools up!!
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