It's ALIVE!!!

[Matchbx]

Well, a little back story here. I bought a 85 hardtop off of craigslist (the one with the dented front end in Winona, MN) for cheap because of the damage and an "aledged" dead fuel pump. If you saw my "check in" thread you saw the damage on it and how dirty the interior was. I cleaned the interior and found that the floorboards were completely intact and rust free. Bonus for me!! I did a full tuneup on it (plugs, cap, rotor, and fuel pump) but the battery was dead. I was ttrying to jumpstart it from my CR-V. She would turn over ok but wouldn't fire. I checked to see if it was getting fuel pressure and there was plenty to be had. So my first thought was the fuel pump is fine. So I tried some more but she just wouldn't fire over.

Well, I went down and got a battery yesterday since I was going to need one anyways. I got up a little early this morning and was ready to go to work faster than I thought, so I thought what the hell. I'll stuff the battery in her. Hooked her up and after 2 tries she fired up and purred like a kitten!! Now I just need to do a full fluid change and figure out why I can't get it into gear.

Speaking of that problem, is there any adjustment for the clutch? Looks like it's a hydraulic clutch. There is plenty of fluid and the pedal feel is correct. The next thing I'm going to check tonight is to see if the pivot arm on the tranny is moving. I just didn't have anyone else there to do the clutch pushing for me. Like I said, the pedal has the right feel like it's disengaging the clutch. But it grinds when I try to put it into gear. And if I shut off the car, put it into gear, push in the clutch and try to start it, it lurches forward. So I'll have to dig deeper tonight when I get home. But I was wondering if there was an adjustment, or do I have to try to bleed the line?

I guess the rest that I have to do to it is fix the body a bit, get an exhaust for it (the old one has a few holes after the cat) and put my plates and new tabs on it. Then she's ready to rock and roll!!! I might have this thing ready for the August 3rd Rallycross after all!

[Gairloch]

Welcome!!

Even though the pedal feel is right I would start by bleeding the clutch lines. I have never worked on a Mk I before but I'm told that the bleed nipples are in kind of the same place. On the Mk II it's attached to the front engine mount. While you're under there have someone push on the clutch pedal to see if it's actually pushing the throw out arm to disengage the clutch.

[mr2tim]

Greetings from the Everglades dude,

Gairlocks advice is good, go for it.
This will eliminate the hydralic problem/possibility.
The clutch bleeder wow, it is crazy, it's under the car?
In stock form it's clipped to the shifter "tree" about 12 inches rearward fom the drivers buttocks.
(Under the battery.)
The clutch master resevour is very very small, and the lines are very very long.
Please note; you have to clutch-pedal the air out. Just using a one-man vacuum pump will NOT do the job.(have several cans ready)
Been there, done that.

The only adjustments on this hydralic system are the clutch pedal adjustments at the footwell.

Alrighty then,
I suspect you have a wasted clutch disc per your discription of symptoms.
if so, some advice?
Replace with a disc that has double-springs in the hub. Do NOT use a Toyota disc with black rubber plugs, they will fail prematurely and positively. GUARENTEED.

Don't drive very far from home dude, if your disc is beginning to shatter, it's just a short amount of time till it blows completely. Rear wheels may or may not lock up? This depends on where the pieces land.

A sneaky way to look for chunks and pieces of clutch parts is to pull loose the inspection plate on the front of the tranny and behind the engine oil pan. (#10 bolts)
Run a clean rag/Q-Tip on the bottom of the bell housing, under the flywheel. Any metal parts whatsoever indicates a probable disc failure. Pressure plates are usually bulletproof.

I may have some good used discs, if this is the problem.
New ones in South Florida go for $90

By the way, you do NOT need to completely remove the engine/trans to change clutch discs OK?. (good news?)

I hope things work out well for ya dude,

Tim Nusbaum
(mr2tim)

[Matchbx]

Thanks for all the advice guys!! That's the kind of knowledge I'm looking for.

I had my girlfriend in the car pressing the pedal down and the rod is moving the pivot arm. I just don't know if it's moving it enough. I'm going to try to air out the lines first (damn compressability of air!!). And regardless of whether it works or not, I'm gonna pull the inspection plate and see what I can see.

So you don't have to pull the engine or the tranny out of the car to do the clutch? If I go in there to do the clutch I'll probably replace the entire set (disc, plate and bearing). I might just do it anyways just so I don't have to do it down the road anytime soon. It's only about $150 or less for the set. I hear ya Tim on using the springs in the disc rather than the rubber. Especially how this thing is going to be driven. It's gonna see some dirt driving, in and out of the first 3 gears constantly. So whatever I put in there is gonna see some abuse. Now by abuse I mean it's going to be used quite well, not misused. I had both setups in my CRX and the springs were the only ones that would hold up.

And a little update on the running issue. It seems she doesn't want to start now. And when I had it running before, it would idle ok (a little high) but if I slowed into the throttle she would rev up fine. Now if I did a quick blast on the throttle she seemed like she was trying to choke out. Now I am starting to wonder if the it's a fuel issue or if it's a vacuum line issue. I am going to go through and replace all of the vacuum lines anyways (they are rotted from sitting for a few years). What I'm wondering is, where to tap in for fuel pressure so I can see if it's a fuel pump issue or not.

Thanks guys.

[Gairloch]

Here's a trick I've heard erioshi espouse for testing fueling.

1. Find out how much output the injectors are supposed to give you.
2. Buy a baby bottle with the volume listed in CCs on the side and cut the tip of the nipple off.
3. Pull each injector in turn and stuff it into the bottle. Turn the engine over then see if it metered out the appropriate amount of fuel.

Things to remember:

*Pull the center plug off of the distributor so it's not sparking

There's a couple of things you can do to test the vacuum lines if you want to look for leaks before replacing all your tubing. (I'd consider just replacing it all if I were you.)
*Start the car then spray the tubing down with a spray bottle of soapy water. If there's a leak you'll see bubbles form.
*You can also spray propane from an unlit torch over your vacuum lines. If you hit a leak and it sucks in the propane you'll hear the engine rev.

[mr2tim]

Mark 1 Clutch tips


Disassembly

The key to keeping the engine in the car during a clutch replacement is to remove the crankshaft pulley.

By removing the pulley you will have the clearance to tilt the engine at the front motor mount.(it swivels)

Lowering the tranny to clear suspension control obstructions is the key.
Once done, the tranny is out after about 6 inches only.

Separating the tranny from the engine can be a bitch sometimes if it has not been separated before. (There are several alignment dowels that stick)

Just before your ready to lower the tranny/engine, unbolt the engine from tranny and open 'em up just ever so slightly (your big, biggest screwdriver), then put one of the 17mm bolts back into the top, soas to keep the tranny from falling off your floor supports during the tilt

You'll have to shim the engine/trans bottom with bricks,boards etc once you obtain the right tilt. Support both from the bottom at all times.

Wrap the TPS in a cushion to be sure you don't "bump' it, it's just a plastic box really. The distributor will be ok.

*Caution..
1. Pay particular attention to the bottom bolt which has threads hidden in the casing, go slow do not overtighten. Watch your bolt length vs hole depth on re-assembly, if you bottom out, the threads strip immediately!!!

2. Do not let the tranny "hang" on the clutch components ever, coming out or going in. Doing so will fracture the metal in the hubs of the disc, which are not made of Krptonite?

Once the pressure plate has cleared the front face of the bell housing it's far 'enuff out to clear the tranny spline and to be unbolted

Assembly Notes

Always use a new throwout bearing!

If you can't use a plastic tranny spline, carefully check the disc's outer edge to assure that is has the same distance from the outer edge of the flywheel all the way around.

When rebolting the pressure plate be sure to make about 3 passes around the bolts tightening them slowly. (You may hear weird sounds as the spring in the pressure plate gets loaded)

Check the throwout bearing/lever during assembly, making sure it does not get hung up somehow.

Alignment of the last 1/2 inch takes patience sometimes. See caution above.

Personal Note:
For convenience of my pit crew, I unclip the clutch bleeder and bend it upwards soas to facilitate bleeding from next to the battery.

(ah..actually..I hate trying to "bleed procedure" laying on my back, in the rain, at the racetrack)

Tim Nusbaum
Se Div SccA Speed Trials

[Matchbx]

Again I have to say thank you for the very useful info!! I love being a part of a community that is so into helping each other at every turn.

I pulled the tank today and tested the fuel pump. Seems she has a dead spot. So first things first, she's getting a new pump next weekend. Tank was a bit of a pain, but with the tech tips I've found on here it was a lot less harder than it could've been. Much of the pain was just clearance issues. Had the car jacked up in the rear and the front of the tank was hitting on the front swaybar. So I just lifted the front right corner a few inches and it was a piece of cake. Getting her back in will be fun, but it will be drained, thus a little bit lighter. I recaptured the 1/4 of a tank of kind of bad fuel into a 5 gallon can of good 91 octane. This will be burned up in the fiddy since that thing will take anything and like it (4-stroke 110cc mini dirt bike).

I'm just wondering if I should just go with a Walbro 195 (or could be 190, I don't remember) now that I have the tank out in case I want to go bigger with the engine down the road. What do you guys think? Or would a 225 be better suited for it?

While all is apart I'm gonna bleed out the clutch line so when I get the new pump in I'll be able to see if she'll go into gear ok. I'll update as soon as I get more done on her. For now, it's more just cleaning things up. And replacing all the vacuum lines. They are so rotted, it's not worth taking the chance of one or more going bad down the road. Might as well just replace them all now and be done with it.

Again, thanks guys.

[Gairloch]

I'm not a huge fan of walbro pumps at all in a car that you're going to either road trip or daily drive because they're loud. I'm sure there are better OE alternatives.

[Matchbx]

I was only thinking if I decide to go bigger later. I guess you're right. It's been a long time since I've been in my walbro'd talon so i forgot about the noise. It will be driven quite a bit (absolutely not a weekend warrior).

How are the stock pumps as far as maybe going turbo'd or s/c'd later on down the road? I just don't want to have to go in and change it again if I decide to upgrade engines. Should I look into getting a stock fuel pump for a turbo'd or s/c'd 2? Or are they the same pump? I'm not looking for huge HP gains. I might just go to something a little "peppy-er" when this engine dies.

[Gairloch]

I would figure out what the SC Mk I uses and run with that bad boy. It's probably a denso pump so you should be able to look it up on their site. I'd do it for you but I don't have time right now

[Matchbx]

No prob. I'll check it out. I appreciate the feedback and advise though. Thanks.

[Matchbx]

I was just checking up on things. Both the turbo and the s/c engines use the same pump as what they use in mine. I think I'm just gonna go with stock. Even if I do a swap, it ain't gonna be a 5S so I'm not so worried about the pump so much. That was the only one that I saw a different pump for.

Now I just gotta wait for the end of the week so I can get some funds to get the darn thing.

On another note, I finally got the bent up bumper cover and support off. Now I just gotta do a little pulling of the core support and start looking for a radiator. Supposedly the one that's in there doesn't leak, but it's bent a bit on the bottom so I don't think I'm gonna take a chance on it. New ones shouldn't be too expensive. While I'm at it, I might as well flush lines good and replace the coolant hoses in the front and the back too. Good insurance. I don't want any surprises with this thing after I get it up and running good.

BTW, completely off-topic here, what do we have to do to be able to view the projects area? Keeps saying I don't have permission. Just wondering if I had to spin around 30 times and then run around the block, or if it's just a post number thing.

Thanks.

[mr2tim]

i may have contacted you previously? but have several rads available. let me know what budget you have for this.

mr2tim
plandcs@aol.com

[Matchbx]

Well, an update on the project.

I got the new fuel pump in and the tank remounted. Runs fine and got the clutch bled out. Took it around the block quick to see if things are good. All went well. Now I just need to get that new radiator from Tim. I'll be sending you a pm tomorrow, Tim, when I know for sure all is good.

I bent the front end back out and remounted the bumper and busted up valance. I do need to get a full valance eventually. I have a front bra coming for it to try to keep things pulled all together until I can get a fender.

I've got the race bucket in the driver's side and the 5-points for both sides. I have to adjust the seat just a little since it needs to angle back slightly.

I still need to put the guards under the gas tank. One thing I was wondering, I am thinking about making aluminum skidplates for under the tank rather than the plastic ones. What I need to know is what is the function of the vent holes in the plastic ones. Is it for air venting purposes or to keep dirt from collecting on top of the cover?

[mr2tim]

As long as your mounting brackets are in good shape go with the OEM bellypans they are tuff as hell. But always in the way for maintenance?

Forget the custom belly pans, but, small tempered steel chasis skid pads are cool if you want to control "high siding" and agricultural racing episodes?

What is up with them belly pan vent holes?

(They let the water out of the interior when you forget to put the t-tops on in in a really big rain storm?)

[Matchbx]

The thing is that it will be driven in a field quite often. And on forest logging roads. I'm one of the organizers for some of the Rally America events in MN and one in MI. Plus I'm also a rallycross racer. That was about the only reason to put them on. If it was only a DD, then I wouldn't worry about it. I may just put the old ones back in anyways.

Luckily mine is a hardtop. So I have no need for T-Top draining ;D

[Matchbx]

Another thing I'm working on down the road is grafting a 1990 Corolla SR5 front bumper into the MR2 bumper. Here are a few pics of the one I found in a junkyard. I put it over the old bumper to see what it will look like when I'm done. I'll have to cut the MR2 bumper just above the black area and then graft the two together. I think it will work but it will be a project I am going to work on a little later.

[Matchbx]

I got her out on the road today!! Got the exhaust on it (although it's still a little loud and raspy) and everything together. To clean up the front end for now, I got a bra for it. The paint is bad already so I'm not worried about wear.

I gotta admit, I've never driven a car like this. It's a little light in the steering, but it sticks well to the road (at least until you push it a little far, found the breakaway point on a round-a-bout...Wheeeee!!!). I just have to get used to the steering a little but I don't see that becoming a problem. Can't wait to rallycross it this weekend!! And take it BIR in Sept!!

I'll post up tomorrow night after I get home from work. I'm driving it in tomorrow.

[mr2tim]

I've discovered that this mark1 gas tank can take the pressure of being "jacked into place" by a floor jack, without the metal failing.

The last few inches are the most difficult as the under tank securement straps have to be manipulated at the same time.
and
Don't forget the electric line thru the shifter area, tie a long string on it.

[mr2tim]

When I first started getting my Mark1 to go over 100mph I discovered the negatives of not having any engine weight on the front end.

Like you, I discovered a rear bumper from a Geo Metro would exactly fit the spoiler-bottom of the front bumper on the Mark 1. And, I had an area to get the jack into since the car is "dropped" 3 inches and has side spoiler extensions

Since I engineered the air to go around the car and not UNDER the car the car is much more stable at the top end, and I have steering control again.

Having learned this I then built my mr2Lite drag car, this one got a Mazda 323 front spoiler inverted. I was going for a Nascar look and it costs only $20

If you can think it you can build it..

Don't give up on imagination..and ingenuity..



Ps Putting a big ol battery up front helps?



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Originally Posted by Matchbx

I got her out on the road today!! Got the exhaust on it (although it's still a little loud and raspy) and everything together. To clean up the front end for now, I got a bra for it. The paint is bad already so I'm not worried about wear.

I gotta admit, I've never driven a car like this. It's a little light in the steering, but it sticks well to the road (at least until you push it a little far, found the breakaway point on a round-a-bout...Wheeeee!!!). I just have to get used to the steering a little but I don't see that becoming a problem. Can't wait to rallycross it this weekend!! And take it BIR in Sept!!

I'll post up tomorrow night after I get home from work. I'm driving it in tomorrow.