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| US - Midwest Region IA, IL, IN, KS, MI, MN, MO, ND, NE, OH, SD, WI |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Retard destroyer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Annandale,MN
Posts: 120
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Check engine light on!
My mr2 has less then 44k on the clock and my check engine light came on. its driving normaly for the first part but know that I recal 2 times a couple months a go i started it and one time it idled a little funny till it warmed up. then I started to drive it and in second gear when accelerating i felt some jerking. second time it happened it did not start funny but it did that jerking on second gear acceleration. once driving the car for a little while it stops doin the jerkin though. Seems like its pronounced the more I spool in second! And now recently the the light came on. I heard I can get the check engine code by usin a paperclip. is that true? Car still runs fine but just dont wanna drive it much right now! If I started it right now and let it warm up im sure it will do that touging in sec again but like I said 1-2 min after that it wont do it anymore. only does it after cold starts I think! Toyota shop is expensive to do a diagnostic on the car and I wont let any joe schmoe auto repair shop touch it nor even lay their eyes on my car!
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#2 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Dec 2005
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The best answer might be to hit up a local auto parts place and see if they can scan the code for you. Since it's an early mkII you will need probably a tool to read OBD-I codes or access the diagnostic port.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Retard destroyer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Annandale,MN
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Thanks alot Ill try both Idea and see where I get with it. Thanks!
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#6 (permalink) |
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Nothing Clever
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pothiawala786 is right. Just pull the code and see what it is. Here is a link to where you can look it up: 1991 MR2 BGB Online - Mechanical - EFI System (under diagnosis system).
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#7 (permalink) |
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Retard destroyer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Annandale,MN
Posts: 120
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Thanks guys! will get back tp u when I check it.
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: Dec 2005
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Quote:
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#9 (permalink) |
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My name is a killing word
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Asheville NC
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obd1 ftw
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#10 (permalink) |
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Retard destroyer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Annandale,MN
Posts: 120
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wow this post is old! Sorry to bring it back up but I never got time to fix the problem. I got an out of state job and put the mr2 in storage and forgot about it over the winter!
![]() So im back and I need to get the car ready for this summer. No more over the road job. It sucked I had no time to work on my cars. So anyways here are the codes I came up with. 21-43 got it using a paper clip and the DIAGNOSIS SYSTEM DESCRIPTION pothiawala786 posted. BTW thanks alot guys. Mr2 community has to be the best car community on the web till this date! |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Retard destroyer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Annandale,MN
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Ok so I did some research and the codes mean...
O2 sensor Starter signal If I swap in a new O2 could both errors go away. They seemed to come at the same time! And If I do get an O2 sensor should I go with denso or bosch??? |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Retard destroyer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Annandale,MN
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But is not the the one that aleardy went out a denso itself. Why would I want to get a denso and have it go out in another 43k miles. or is that the life expectiancy on the 3sgte o2 sensors all together?
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#14 (permalink) |
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Cage Fighter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: illinois
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im not sure about the life expectancy but i have a really bad experience with bosch im sure you can find it here in this forum if you search it. bosch i believe is good at euro cars. i bought a bosch o2 sensor once and my check engine light was still on. then i bought the original OEM denso and my light never went on after that. im sure even if you ask around they will say OEM for the win.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Retard destroyer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Annandale,MN
Posts: 120
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Ok sweet! Thanks you saved me from possible trouble then! I would have been aggrivated if that had happened but I still have a feeling that after I get the o2 I will still have the check engine light due to the code 43 ingnition issue. I am wondering if that might be an issue that comes along with the o2 going out or if it may be something to do with distributer,spark plugs, or spark plug wires?
If someone can please help me with this it would be much appreciated! Even opinions help! |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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OT people blew me hard
Join Date: May 2006
Location: MA
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Quote:
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#18 (permalink) |
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Retard destroyer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Annandale,MN
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Ok I can relax. I already had plans to get a set of pulstar spark plugs and the o2 will be in effect soon as it gets a little warmer out! Ill make that a denso o2 as well! im going to do some price searching on the cheapest denso o2 units as well! I will post what the results are when I get these done! thanks! ![]() |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Fabricator
Join Date: Oct 2009
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The jerking / rough running under boost and moderate acceleration is most likely due to old worn ignition components. A tune up (I.e., plugs, cap, rotor and possibly wires) should solve the problem.
The codes that you got would not have anything to do with that issue. The STA signal is not vital except for start-up and even then, its not really that vital except during real cold start-up. The O2 code is just that, a fault for the O2. The ecu does not use the O2 during any moderate to hard acceleration. The ecu only looks are the O2 signal during closed loop operation and closed loop only occurs during idle, cruise and light acceleration and only once the engine is above about 170*F. As for sensors, i personally have used Bosch sensor for years and have never had any issues. Afterall, Bosch is the original designer of the O2 sensor (including wideband O2's). For that matter, the entire ECU and function / design is based off of the Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection system IIRC. I can't recall which one but I'm pretty sure its the L-jet system. I'm not saying anything bad about Denso stuff cause it is very high quality, but Bosch is really good. |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Retard destroyer
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Annandale,MN
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so what do you think is causing the 43 ignition code. I do have issues with the battery draining if I leave the terminals conected while in storage! Takes up to 4-6 weeks before the battery dies. i make sure everything is off.
The battery is dead right now and I will jump start it once I am ready to take it out or work on it. Maybee the battery and the jump starts might be causing it? It does start rough for the first time every time i resurect her for winters but then when the battery is charged again it starts normal afterwards! I am thinking since the battery has been dead for a while now the codes might have resset themselves so when I start her back up with a jump start I will have to see what codes come up after that if any does appear. |
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