Bits and pieces from the old V6 Sticky...

[DaveMush]

'm at close to 4 grand with 100% stock parts.

V6 Engine and Manual E153 Solara tranny $1600
Turbo parts car $550
ECU reprogramming $100
KYB AGX Struts (used from Brad) $250
93T sways $50 Bucks
Prothane bushing kit
Speedsource bushings for clutch
Solara Altenator (used) $70
Axle machining $50
Tranny Work (to get the V6 tranny internals into the MR2T casing) $300
new brake pads for Turbo calipers
all new coolant hoses and heater hoses (entire car)
brass wire wheels
paint
tools
HAND CLEANER!!!
new shift knob
Aeromotive FPR
SS fuel line
Russel and Earl's fuel fittings...

The list goes on and on and on and on....

It aint cheap.

[DaveMush]

'm at close to 4 grand with 100% stock parts.

V6 Engine and Manual E153 Solara tranny $1600
Turbo parts car $550
ECU reprogramming $100
KYB AGX Struts (used from Brad) $250
93T sways $50 Bucks
Prothane bushing kit
Speedsource bushings for clutch
Solara Altenator (used) $70
Axle machining $50
Tranny Work (to get the V6 tranny internals into the MR2T casing) $300
new brake pads for Turbo calipers
all new coolant hoses and heater hoses (entire car)
brass wire wheels
paint
tools
HAND CLEANER!!!
new shift knob
Aeromotive FPR
SS fuel line
Russel and Earl's fuel fittings...

The list goes on and on and on and on....

It aint cheap.

[DaveMush]

Ok, for the 99 to 2001 engines... The term charcoal canister is way wrong. This thing is HUGE! its got so many inputs that I believe Evap canister is more appropriate.

Also, the canister is the same either way between 4cyl and 6cyl models of the Camry. SO, if anyone else chooses to go the route of hooking up the entire OBDII Evap system, you can get the whole box w/ all the spaghetti from either vehicle.

The other chore is going to be how to mount it. It has to be mounted horizontally. Otherwise it will leak into the tubes, or hold all the fluids as all the ports come out one side of the unit. It's at least 12-14" in length and 6-8" in width.

[DaveMush]

Ok, for those of you who may want to do the swap w/ the stock ECU...
I mounted the EVAP cansister in the left corner of the trunk. Ran my hoses from the trunk, around the suspension tower, and drilled a hole in the left wall of the engine bay to install a rubber bung. This whole thing assumes that you got the EVAP canister, stock airbox, and all the associated sensors to go w/ it.

OK, SO...

The EVAP canister basically has 7 tubes connected to it per the 2001 Repair manual. They are as follows:
1.)EVAP/purge line FROM the EVAP VSV
2.)EVAP line TO the tank (cut-off valve at the tank)
3.)TO the VSV for pressure switching valve
4.)FROM the VSV for pressure switching valve
5.)air inlet line FROM VSV for Closed Canister Valve (CCV) (VSV for CCV comes FROM the stock airbox or intake tube on one side, and the EVAP canister on the other side.)
6.)Vent line TO fuel tank (check-valve at the tank)
7.)Vapor pressure sensor TO fuel tank.


I figured out the solution to how to hook this whole mess up to the stock MR2 system w/o drilling/making new connections to the fuel tank.

1.) this line is self explanatory.

2.)The 91' MR2 has only 2 connections to the tank w/ the exception of fuel pump and return lines. Both of them connect to a cut-off valve at the tank, and to the fuel evaporative separator behind the firewall. There's only 1 connection at the top of the separator. This line normally would run to the charcoal canister.
I used this line to connect to the 2.)EVAP line to the tank.

3.) & 4.) self explanatory.

5.) Connects to the CCV. Again, self explanatory.

6.) & 7.) This part may get difficult to follow. But hear me out...
-The Vent line is about 5/8" corrugated plastic hose w/ a "special connector" at the EVAP canister. If you remove the connector, you can easily use regular rubber hose to connect to the canister. The Vent line is a simple connection to the tank to allow fuel vapor to travel between the Tank and canister.
-The Vapor pressure sensor connects to the canister w/ a smal diameter vaccum hose, and to the tank w/ a 1/4" hose. The vapor pressure sensor is used to detect if the cap fuel cap is in and tight.

-The breather line to the fuel tank on the MR2 is the line that goes from the tank, follows up the tank filler pipe, and has a hole at the top of the filler pipe. This line is blocked when the fuel cap is present, and open to let air out of the tank when you fill it w/ gas.

What I did was this:
Cut the breather line to the tank where the rubber hose shunt is behind the heat sheld. Instal a 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 PVC Tee connector (bought at Home Depot) in the rubber hose. Off the 3rd pole of the tee, run a single 1/2" hose to the charcoal canister's location.

[DaveMush]

I may have found the answer to the immobilizer and the manual vs, auto issues.
There is an Ebay seller that I've had some recent contact with. She has over 750 positive feedback.
anyways, Brook, says that she can reprogram any of the ecu's to no longer require the immobilizer systems if the ECU's previously required them. I streatched that idea a lil further and asked if she could reprogram them from auto to manual, and I havnt yet gotten a responce. We'll see!

If so, than it wouldnt matter what ECU you find, she could then reprogram them to be manual, w/ or w/o the immobilizer. Means no more tricking the auto ECU.

We'll see how it turns out when I get my ECU back. Formerly a manual w/ immilizer.

[DaveMush]

Well at the end of sending the ECU out to be Reprogrammed. The end result was a car that started up first try. We ommitted the center plug (5-plug ECU) and didnt use an immobilizer key.

Brook's re-programming works. Email me If you need his info. DaveMush2@twcny.rr.com

[DaveMush]

To answer a question on Automatic Vs. Manual ECU's...

Per the Toyota EPC, the part #'s on the 1MZ-FE Ecu is the exact same reguardless of transmission type, and also reguardless of the use of the immobilizer functions.
Basically confirming that the only difference in the Manual & Automatic ECU's is the wiring harness and the way the ECU is grounded/connected.

I was talking to Dan and Randy earlier today about this find. Randy confirms that the EPC uses the same part #'s for all types of equipment.
I'm off to the Toyota dealership to ask them the same questions and also to see if they can clear the immobilizer memory on my 2001 ECU with the Toyota Scan Tool.

I will edit this post when I find out more.

[DaveMush]

posted by Seth W
Ok I'm getting closer to doing my swap.

Just to make sure, I still have to use the V6 intermediate shaft, right? I'm using a 97+ 1mz-fe with a 91T tranny w/TRD LSD to it. I have the stock drive shafts for both sides.

I know that Our V6 thread has become a bit clouded, as that is a hard thing to prevent. BUT, you dont need to use the V6 intermediate shaft itself. You do need it for the swap though.
What you will need to do is take a measurement from the point on the V6 shaft where it exits the tranny, to the edge of the carrier bearing. This is the measurement that you will then need to duplicate on the Mr2 intermediate shaft. That is where its been said that you will need to have the intermediate shaft machined.

Since the V6 tranny is a true E153 tranny (same as the Mr2T) than the Mr2T 6-bolt axles seem to be the best bet for the swap. The length of the axles should be correct assuming that You get the carrier bearing to run on the correct place on the intermediate shaft. Since you are using the Mr2T tranny w/ LSD, the 6-bolt axles would again be best. but you need to use the LSD axles. And from what I understand, they float inside the tranny a lil bit. So make sure to get the axle machined correctly.

posted by Seth W
Other than that it looks like all I need to do is the fuel system, tranny speed sensor and tach as well as a different than stock radiator.

-Fuel system is a must. There seem to be a few different ways of doing it. 100% aftermarket w/ an FPR and tapping the rails. Using the earlier model 1mz fuel rails. (But be sure to get the pressure at 47-50psi for the 99+ engines.)
-From what it seems, if you are choosing to use the Mr2T tranny, than you can simply use the speedo drive that you already have in the car. If you have a cable driven speedo now, use the gear drive at the tranny. If you have the electronic speedo, than use the electronic speedo sensor at the tranny. I don't see why there would be a difference in the accuracy of the speedo in both of those cases using that tranny. But If you do choose to use the V6 internals (different ratios) in the Mr2T tranny casing, I figure that you will need to have some sort of error correction in there to get your speed right.
-Tachometer - Are you using the a/c systems in your swap or no? If not, Mitch did well with my tach by changing out a transistor. Maybe he can do a write-up on it, or tell you how to do it.
-Radiator - A few of us have used the N/a radiator in the swap and have had no ill effects. The mr2 has considerably more coolant than any front engine car. So the N/a radiator seems to be more than up to the act of cooling the 1mz.
Also, a few of us have chosen to use the Turbo radiator as it its much thicker than the N/a and holds even more coolant.
I really don't think an aftermarket radiator is necessary. :2cents:

Only other things I can think of at the moment that might be an issue would be these.
-Are you going to use the cruise control? If so, you will need to figure something out with the throttle cam.
-Remember to use the Mr2 Turbo engine mounts and construct the passenger side mount.
-You will need the Mr2T rear hubs & bearings to match the axles on the Mr2T tranny. I have no idea if the outer splines on the LSD axles are different from the non-LSD axles.
-You will need to use the Mr2T shifter cables.

As Brad said it, I would use the Solara alternator, yet I don't think that the Mr2T alternator fits.

And of course the issue of wiring. Solder & shrinkwrap them. Take your time and its worth it.

-Dave

[DaveMush]

I have sucessfully modded my steering column to include all of the stock Solara immobilizer functions.

Including the stock Solara immobilizer key, and pick-up coil.
No, I didnt mount them under the dash, or in the trunk tucked away... They are in their stock locations.

Car is gonna be nice once its all done this time around. New paint, 2001 stock stereo amplifier, 2001 EVAP systems, OBDII compliance, fully functional immobilizer... ALL stock systems in place.
I'm even trying to see If I can get ahold of the stock theft systems to wire in to the car.

Ok, so I finally got some good pics of the steering column in its modded state. The old mr2 ignition switch and housing is shown in some of the pics so you can get a good idea of what I did to get the Solara stuff onto the mr2 column.



use the guide arrows at the bottom to see the other pics.