My epic FAIL #3001

Jason.MZW20 · 05-29-2009, 07:17 PM

You know, since this was my first time wiring, I really, really didn't plan things out too well. My notes were great, terminals spot on, but routing the wires ... not so much. So, I looked at my wiring and shook my head. Yeah, the engine ran beautifully, but the wiring was a complete mess. Troubleshooting would've been impossible. I shook my head more. Then I tried to untangle everything.

I ended up cutting all of the connections to EA3, EB1, and chassis E6 because they were just horrible (on top of that, the rubber boot wasn't installed where the main ECU loom went on the 3S/5S). Tsk tsk. It's like I had a few ideas on the wire routing and mashed them all together. The fact that it ran was a miracle.

My back hurts and I'm tired, but I have a ton of wires to do. When it's done and presentable, I'll post a pic or two. This time around it'll be done properly (like it should've the FIRST time!!). Ugh.

Jason.MZW20 · 05-31-2009, 09:44 AM

So this is taking longer than expected. I'm now working on day 3 (today) at roughly 8-12 hours a day. But I've got some useful work done.

I've been making new connectors and removing unnecessary wires.

The changes so far:

Removed terminals 2 and 8 on EB1
Removed terminals 9, 10, 14, 15 on EA3
Removed terminals 2, 6, 9, 12 on EA1
(5SFE terminals differ a bit)
Modified tons of wire lengths (all are now even with no excess)

E6 is now E5 and E6 (two 5 pin connectors)
EA3 now uses a 12 pin connector
EB1 uses a junction (3 pin connector) for the switched power (IGN relay) wire splices and a connector with 2 wire splices on the female end for ECU-IG PWR (B-Y)
OBDII wires now use a 4 pin connector (circuit ground ["CG"] is located on the dash panel); BATT, SIL, TC, SG
Alternator wires now use a 3 pin connector and were greatly reduced in length
ECU ground with multiple splice points now uses a connector with 3 wire splices on the female end

Complete pin-outs for all connectors for troubleshooting

All in all, it's looking very good. Probably not as clean as the guys who took more time to relocate the 1MZ's main loom, but it's still looking a lot more professional and not like some crackhead tried to wire stuff. There was never any problem with the wiring in the engine bay. That looked clean from the start, but the trunk was my main concern.

Jim's wiring really made me envious, as did a lot of you other guys that took a ton of time to do things right.

conor · 06-01-2009, 03:56 PM

Awww..

I feel my wiring is decent.. Not perfect, but good enough. And with that said, I have a fresh 1MZ harness in the garage that I plan on using when I next have the engine out (probably for a t-belt/clutch/transmission job).

The back pain is something I think we can all relate to

JimKing · 06-02-2009, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason.MZW20

Jim's wiring really made me envious, as did a lot of you other guys that took a ton of time to do things right.

Thanks. I spent a lot of time on it with the 1MZ and 5SFE harnesses on the bench putting it all together.
It'll make dropping the dead engine back out so much easier

AndyA · 06-02-2009, 10:44 PM

Say it isn't so. I thought you just had clutch problems.

JimKing · 06-03-2009, 01:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyA

Say it isn't so. I thought you just had clutch problems.

Didn't really sound like rod knock, and the engine oil didn't have metal flakes in it... but the clutch looks fine. Must be the motor, right?

AndyA · 06-03-2009, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimKing

Didn't really sound like rod knock, and the engine oil didn't have metal flakes in it... but the clutch looks fine. Must be the motor, right?

Pull the main efi relay and crank the motor over. The fuel pump won't run so the engine won't fire and you can listen easier to where the sound is coming from.

Jason.MZW20 · 06-05-2009, 10:03 PM

Ouch Jim. I had no idea you were experiencing issues with your motor already. I plastigauged my rod and main bearings before I replaced them. They were in good shape, but I wanted the motor to last a lot longer as this will be daily driven. The clearances now are a little tighter than they were, so here's to hoping it'll hold up and not get starved of oil or have a bolt failure.

The parts catalog will come in handy when choosing your bearings. My dealership totally messed everything up even though I gave them the part numbers. How they did that is beyond me.

Jason.MZW20 · 07-04-2009, 09:36 PM

Quick update: Still testing the new wiring and connectors. I have strict standards of reliability. I want it OEM spec pretty much.

I've replaced the gasket on my the rear fuse box cover too. It came out in hard, black chunks. I used the black timing belt cover stuff (came with my engine gasket kit) to reseal it so it's soft and pliable.

I've fitted the 2000+ charcoal canister underneath the intake. This is only possible with an aftermarket Injen intake. It allows the canister to line up along the firewall with very little fuel hose needed to connect the ports to the fuel tank. It bolts to the transmission side motor mount top with very little fuss. I'm thinking of using a spacer (think fuel rail spacer) though so that it's not tilted rearward. I want it as flat as possible. I'll have to come up with something to secure the other side.

The aftermarket y-pipe I bought seems to not want to fit the rear bank, which is why I hate aftermarket replacements. It's about an inch shy, so an exhaust shop will have to help me use this pipe. Toyota didn't change the manifold design until the pre-cat ones came into existance. 94-97 y-pipes are the same (incl. 98+ for M/T). It is insulated though like the old Toyota pipes with a high quality, unpolished stainless steel or some other corrosion resistant metal.

JimKing · 07-05-2009, 04:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason.MZW20

The aftermarket y-pipe I bought seems to not want to fit the rear bank, which is why I hate aftermarket replacements. It's about an inch shy, so an exhaust shop will have to help me use this pipe. Toyota didn't change the manifold design until the pre-cat ones came into existance. 94-97 y-pipes are the same (incl. 98+ for M/T).

Yeah, I learned this out too, when I got a generic replacement Y-pipe to make my referee friendly exhaust. It didn't line up with my CA-spec 99 Solara rear manifold. The exhaust shop had to do a little splice work on it. This didn't matter for the Y-pipe I built myself, of course.
On the plus side, the flange on the later pre-cat compatible rear manifold doesn't interfere with the NA axle.

Jason.MZW20 · 07-05-2009, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimKing

On the plus side, the flange on the later pre-cat compatible rear manifold doesn't interfere with the NA axle.

Yeah, I was a little worried about the interference. It looks VERY close with the M/T manifold. I have the rear bank's A/T manifold still, so if I need the flange, I'll give it to the exhaust shop.

05-29-2009, 07:17 PM	#1 (permalink)
Jason.MZW20 Pig Snout Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Victorville, CA Posts: 1,373 Thanks: 15 Thanked 111 Times in 102 Posts Blog Entries: 6 iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	My epic FAIL #3001 You know, since this was my first time wiring, I really, really didn't plan things out too well. My notes were great, terminals spot on, but routing the wires ... not so much. So, I looked at my wiring and shook my head. Yeah, the engine ran beautifully, but the wiring was a complete mess. Troubleshooting would've been impossible. I shook my head more. Then I tried to untangle everything. I ended up cutting all of the connections to EA3, EB1, and chassis E6 because they were just horrible (on top of that, the rubber boot wasn't installed where the main ECU loom went on the 3S/5S). Tsk tsk. It's like I had a few ideas on the wire routing and mashed them all together. The fact that it ran was a miracle. My back hurts and I'm tired, but I have a ton of wires to do. When it's done and presentable, I'll post a pic or two. This time around it'll be done properly (like it should've the FIRST time!!). Ugh.

05-31-2009, 09:44 AM	#2 (permalink)
Jason.MZW20 Pig Snout Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Victorville, CA Posts: 1,373 Thanks: 15 Thanked 111 Times in 102 Posts Blog Entries: 6 iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	So this is taking longer than expected. I'm now working on day 3 (today) at roughly 8-12 hours a day. But I've got some useful work done. I've been making new connectors and removing unnecessary wires. The changes so far: Removed terminals 2 and 8 on EB1 Removed terminals 9, 10, 14, 15 on EA3 Removed terminals 2, 6, 9, 12 on EA1 (5SFE terminals differ a bit) Modified tons of wire lengths (all are now even with no excess) E6 is now E5 and E6 (two 5 pin connectors) EA3 now uses a 12 pin connector EB1 uses a junction (3 pin connector) for the switched power (IGN relay) wire splices and a connector with 2 wire splices on the female end for ECU-IG PWR (B-Y) OBDII wires now use a 4 pin connector (circuit ground ["CG"] is located on the dash panel); BATT, SIL, TC, SG Alternator wires now use a 3 pin connector and were greatly reduced in length ECU ground with multiple splice points now uses a connector with 3 wire splices on the female end Complete pin-outs for all connectors for troubleshooting All in all, it's looking very good. Probably not as clean as the guys who took more time to relocate the 1MZ's main loom, but it's still looking a lot more professional and not like some crackhead tried to wire stuff. There was never any problem with the wiring in the engine bay. That looked clean from the start, but the trunk was my main concern. Jim's wiring really made me envious, as did a lot of you other guys that took a ton of time to do things right. Last edited by Jason.MZW20; 05-31-2009 at 11:43 AM..

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06-01-2009, 03:56 PM	#3 (permalink)
conor Lord Anti-Rice Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Roseville, CA Posts: 987 Thanks: 22 Thanked 32 Times in 28 Posts Blog Entries: 1 My Google Map iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Awww.. I feel my wiring is decent.. Not perfect, but good enough. And with that said, I have a fresh 1MZ harness in the garage that I plan on using when I next have the engine out (probably for a t-belt/clutch/transmission job). The back pain is something I think we can all relate to

06-02-2009, 10:44 PM	#5 (permalink)
AndyA No Skills Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 24 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts iTrader Rating: (0/0% )	Say it isn't so. I thought you just had clutch problems.

06-05-2009, 10:03 PM	#8 (permalink)
Jason.MZW20 Pig Snout Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Victorville, CA Posts: 1,373 Thanks: 15 Thanked 111 Times in 102 Posts Blog Entries: 6 iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Ouch Jim. I had no idea you were experiencing issues with your motor already. I plastigauged my rod and main bearings before I replaced them. They were in good shape, but I wanted the motor to last a lot longer as this will be daily driven. The clearances now are a little tighter than they were, so here's to hoping it'll hold up and not get starved of oil or have a bolt failure. The parts catalog will come in handy when choosing your bearings. My dealership totally messed everything up even though I gave them the part numbers. How they did that is beyond me.

07-04-2009, 09:36 PM	#9 (permalink)
Jason.MZW20 Pig Snout Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Victorville, CA Posts: 1,373 Thanks: 15 Thanked 111 Times in 102 Posts Blog Entries: 6 iTrader Rating: (2/100% )	Quick update: Still testing the new wiring and connectors. I have strict standards of reliability. I want it OEM spec pretty much. I've replaced the gasket on my the rear fuse box cover too. It came out in hard, black chunks. I used the black timing belt cover stuff (came with my engine gasket kit) to reseal it so it's soft and pliable. I've fitted the 2000+ charcoal canister underneath the intake. This is only possible with an aftermarket Injen intake. It allows the canister to line up along the firewall with very little fuel hose needed to connect the ports to the fuel tank. It bolts to the transmission side motor mount top with very little fuss. I'm thinking of using a spacer (think fuel rail spacer) though so that it's not tilted rearward. I want it as flat as possible. I'll have to come up with something to secure the other side. The aftermarket y-pipe I bought seems to not want to fit the rear bank, which is why I hate aftermarket replacements. It's about an inch shy, so an exhaust shop will have to help me use this pipe. Toyota didn't change the manifold design until the pre-cat ones came into existance. 94-97 y-pipes are the same (incl. 98+ for M/T). It is insulated though like the old Toyota pipes with a high quality, unpolished stainless steel or some other corrosion resistant metal.