8k+ rpm v6... Build?? or not to build...

[CJMR2T]

exactly, 2jz rods are shorter by 4mm. that would lower the c/r to run a turbo on high boost. think the stock ratio on a 3vz is 9.0:1, so that should put it right around 8ish. so he gets a stronger part made for stupid amounts of power, easier to find, and can rev the dogshit out of it. and im talkin about eagles or any other mfg than stock. gonna do it, do it right.

Just cause the stock is 4mm different, doesn't mean the rod length is 4mm different. The deck height of the block has to be accounted for here.. I HIGHLY DOUBT the 2jz rod with come close to fitting a VZ or MZ block.

Also, 4mm is going to lower the compression a lot more then that. It'll actually take it more towards high 6.x:1 ~ 7.0:1 from 9.0:1.

[Black93Hardtop]

There is some serious misinformation going on in this thread! WOW!

[328FTW]

Also the rods are HUGE, like massive

3vz, 1mz eagle rod and 1mz stock rod if I'm not mistaken





Look at the size of the rod stock on a 3vz, it's ridiculously huge. Also not being inline balancing is a bitch if you want it dead on, the assemblies don't oppose themselves like an inline engine. It's not cheap.

[MR2Japan]

There is some serious misinformation going on in this thread! WOW!

My thread has been jacked.. Maybe I should make a build thread instead. Where do they go?

[mr2hybrid93]

I'd look more into headwork rather than just short block when it comes to "high revving"

it'll most likely just beg for more air up top in the rev range. Don't choke it

[GStar01]

Any news in Project? Yet boosted or high rev?

[Wangan]

The 2GR rod is forged and fits with ZERO modification
In the 1mz
your welcome

[MR2Japan]

Wait so put a 2gr rod in the 3vzfe straight up? What if I wanted to just get the rod right now and put it in??

The 2GR rod is forged and fits with ZERO modification
your welcome

[MR2Japan]

Engine is in tomorrow, then boosted in a few months coming. Pictures on the way.

Any news in Project? Yet boosted or high rev?

[Wangan]

it fits in the 1mz

[Wangan]

My personal plans on my 1MZ are copper HG, raise comp, Forged pistons+Rods, ARP Rod, Head, and Main fasteners, and just a regular rebuild kit.

Bullet proof is not good enough, I need to make it Alan proof (aka Me.)
I ran a purpose built racing engine into the ground in a year, I was detuned to 250 of the 300 crank it was made for rev limited to 9. (300 was too much for touge in a 2000lb car)

[328FTW]

I ran a purpose built racing engine into the ground in a year

Sounds about right, they are built to last a season of racing, that's it. Every component is the minimum weight you can get away with plus ringing the crap out of every component is stressful. Racing motors blow up consistently, I'm always blowing up motors. People seem to think I'm constantly fixing my pieces of shit for this reason, those people can stop thinking that right now cause I can confirm they are 100% correct

[CJMR2T]

.............. (300 was too much for touge in a 2000lb car)

Nah, you just didn't have good enough suspension and / or tires. We've ran nearly 370 in a 1600lb car with no traction or handling issues at all.

[Wangan]

Nah, you just didn't have good enough suspension and / or tires. We've ran nearly 370 in a 1600lb car with no traction or handling issues at all.

Lol CJ, you live in FL, Go up into the mountains.
In a technical road section you can't get up enough speed to get down force.
I've out run Sti's and a 240SX with a RB26 swap with over 400hp for just that reason.

[MR2Japan]

Lol CJ, you live in FL, Go up into the mountains.
In a technical road section you can't get up enough speed to get down force.
I've out run Sti's and a 240SX with a RB26 swap with over 400hp for just that reason.

Heheh..

[siman]

...ok getting back on track...

My build I'm working on is a 5vzfe and I'm building it to reach around 8.5k. When it comes to high rpm some got it right mainly noted the short stroke is a good idea but only if your going 12k ish... you can reach 10k "easily" without shorting the stroke but its gong to cost. Another way to reach high rpm is lighten the rotating mass and the valve train. For my set up I'm going with forged aluminum rods and pistons and lightweight sodium fill valves. The whole thing is going to run on a forged crank from LCE, in addition to the sodium valves I'm going to run double valve springs and titanium retainers. I'm also switching to shim under bucket.

update: my limit will be 8.5k but the springs should be good for 10k.

[328FTW]

If you are going to daily it I'd stay away from aluminium rods, in fact I'd stay away period. They tend to stretch, need resizing and have a fatigue life. Ask my uncle who is quite used to throwing aluminium rods out the side of the block in a very expensive way every now and again.


Why not a 2GR?

[Jason.MZW20]

...ok getting back on track...

My build I'm working on is a 5vzfe and I'm building it to reach around 8.5k. When it comes to high rpm some got it right mainly noted the short stroke is a good idea but only if your going 12k ish... you can reach 10k "easily" without shorting the stroke but its gong to cost. Another way to reach high rpm is lighten the rotating mass and the valve train. For my set up I'm going with forged aluminum rods and pistons and lightweight sodium fill valves. The whole thing is going to run on a forged crank from LCE, in addition to the sodium valves I'm going to run double valve springs and titanium retainers. I'm also switching to shim under bucket.

update: my limit will be 8.5k but the springs should be good for 10k.

And what are you going to do about the heat generated by the pretty large pistons in the 5VZ by revving that high? It's often overlooked, but I'm curious. Manufacturers use specially coated cylinder walls and low-friction rings/piston surfaces.

[Wangan]

something I know honda does is use oil squirters to shoot a jet of oil up the cylinders to take away heat. You can also use a light weight Flywheel. a light weight flywheel will take away a ton of weight.
And the Shim under bucket and shimless is deff a good Idea.

[siman]

Its a myth about aluminum being week after the 2000s they have took off with new forging and heat treatment processes you don't see any issues anymore. As for the heat I'm thinking about a dry sump system, it will have a electric water pump, and oil cooler though. You really don't need oil sprayers unless your going for dumb RPMs. I'm only shooting for 10K as a max, but Im going to tune it so I the limiter at 9k-ish. Also its going to run on alcohol so it would run cooler.

update: yeah going shim under bucket gives me piece of mind have seen what a stock shim can do to a nice engine build. limiter at 8.5 fuel cut at 9 ish didn't want to get that confusing...